AppliancePartsPros Forum Forum

Please make sure to click on General above and select the correct appliance type first. Brand: LG Model Number:LRE3012ST/01 Main Symptom: not reaching selected temperature What happens & when: when i turn oven on " bake 350" it cuts off at appx.300* Error Code (if any): Parts or tests already tried: Photos / video link:

Please make sure to click on General above and select the correct appliance type first. Brand: Kitchen Aid Model Number: KAWS850LQ1 Main Symptom: Cloths washer, making grinding sound in rinse cycle, tub still agitating Replacement Part# ?? What happens & when: Error Code (if any): Parts or tests already tried: Photos / video link:

Jeffrey_S_APP_Team: LRYXC2606S EAU65058502 is the condenser fan motor , not one of the two freezer evaporator/ice-compartment fans. Multiple parts sources identify EAU65058502 specifically as the condenser fan motor for the LRYXC2606S. The important clue is where you heard the squeal : from behind the refrigerator, roughly 2 feet above the floor on the left side . That makes me hesitant to replace EAU65058502 based on the noise location alone. The condenser fan associated with EAU65058502 is part of the machine compartment at the bottom/rear , near the compressor and condenser. About the replacement motor looking different There is an interesting wrinkle here. EAU65058502 supersedes several earlier LG motors , including EAU65058302/EAU64843805, depending on the parts source. I’ve also found reports of the replacement EAU65058502 having a shorter wire lead and a longer shaft than an original LG motor. So the physical difference doesn’t automatically mean they sent you the wrong part . However, I wouldn’t splice the wires or modify the fan blade yet . First I’d make absolutely sure we’re replacing the fan that actually squealed. Here’s the test I’d do Pull the refrigerator out again and remove the lower rear machine-compartment cover . Then temporarily power the refrigerator back up and listen. LIVE POWER WARNING: Keep your hands, meter leads, clothing, and tools completely away from the fan, compressor terminals, wiring and control components while it’s energized. Locate the c

Jeffrey_S_APP_Team: LG LRYXC2606S As I was trying to diagnose the ice maker problem a fan started making a squealing sound. The noise was coming from the back. I pulled the refrigerator out away from the wall to try and pinpoint the noise. When behind the fridge and facing the back, the noise was coming from the left side about 2 feet off the floor. I ordered the fan, using my model number, part # EAU65058502, and it arrived just now. This LG LRYXC2606S refrigerator has 2 fans in the freezer. The fan that was delivered today is a little different, the wires are not long enough and the shaft is longer.

Did you observe the shifter actuator arm to see if it moved during the switch from agitate to spin

either that or the splutch is stuck between gears from the actuator not moving. You should hear a distinct click or pop, separate of the lid lock, when it shifts between agitate and spin

This whole situation started with clothes were soaking wet so something happened with the spin cycle cause it was like that cycle never happened. And now I see that it isn’t spinning. Sorry I’m helping my mother in law on this, I’m now finding this

Did this test the motor sounds good but a terrible grind happens for a couple seconds and the agitator never moves. Seems maybe something with the transmission or agitator gear?? I’m not sure?

On the MVW4505MW , the easiest way to command the lid lock in Service Mode is through the Automatic Test . The factory tech sheet W11466159B shows that the lid locks when the test reaches the agitation and spin portions. Lock the lid in Service Mode Put the washer in Standby — plugged in, all LEDs off. Turn the cycle knob counterclockwise one click . Then turn: Right → Right → Right → Left → Right All LEDs should flash, indicating Service Mode. Rotate the knob until LED 2 is illuminated. This selects Automatic Test . Press START to begin. The automatic test proceeds like this: LED 1 — Water valves Lid remains unlocked. LED 2 — Drain pump Lid remains unlocked. LED 3 — LID LOCKS The actuator shifts to Wash , then the washer performs a short agitation test. LED 4 — LID STAYS LOCKED The actuator shifts to Spin , then the washer performs a spin test. All LEDs — Test complete The lid unlocks and the actuator returns to Wash position. This is a very useful test for your F5E1 + F7E1 Watch closely when it reaches LED 3 . If you hear the lid lock click and it locks , but the washer then fails when it attempts agitation/spin, I’d move our attention toward the F7E1 drive/tachometer problem — particularly the shift actuator, wiring, capacitor, belt and motor circuit . Maytag specifically lists those items for F7E1. If it reaches LED 3 and the lid never clicks or locks , stop there. Your F5E1 becomes much more significant , and I’d test the lid lock W11670519, strike/bezel, wiring and cont

When I unplug it and plug it back in it releases the lock. Also might be worth mentioning when the machine was first started sensing it sounded like it was trying to do something not sure what but sound like it was struggling to balance the load so to speak in sensing light mode of operation.

When I try to run a load it cycles the lid lock on and off then it stays locked and the light flashes. Then after 15 minutes it finally filled but never agitated, then it did drain when I put it in that selection mode. When in the teat mode I don’t think it locked but I’m not sure.

F5E1 = Lid Switch Fault. The control isn’t reliably seeing the lid switch/strike change state. F7E1 = Basket Speed/Tachometer Fault. The control commanded movement but didn’t receive the expected basket-speed feedback. Maytag’s service information specifically directs F7E1 troubleshooting toward the drive system, shifter/tachometer, wiring, capacitor/motor, and calibration. Because yours sometimes starts after several unplug attempts and then runs an entire cycle perfectly , I’d suspect an intermittent connection/sensor problem before a mechanical transmission problem . I’d diagnose it in this order 1. Start with the lid lock because of F5E1. Unplug the washer. Inspect the lid strike where it enters the lock. Make sure it isn’t cracked, bent, loose, or having trouble entering the lock. Then inspect the lid-lock connector and wiring. Pay particular attention to wires where they enter the connector. Try this quick test when the washer is acting up: close the lid and press downward directly over the lock while starting a cycle. If it suddenly starts, the lid lock/strike alignment or lid-lock assembly becomes the leading suspect. Maytag defines F5E1 specifically as the control failing to properly detect the lid switch/strike. 2. Inspect the wiring underneath before replacing the actuator. Tilt the washer back and locate the shift actuator near the large drive pulley. Check the connector at the actuator and follow that harness toward the control. Look for a wire that is: Broken or