The PHILCO Phorum Forum

Hello guys, I’ve got a 1970s Sony CF-320 portable radio on my bench for repair. So far, I’ve replaced two of the three rubber belts and about five electrolytic capacitors. One was a 2200µF at 10 volts, but it only measured around 110 pF—definitely done for—so I swapped it with a 2200µF at 16 volts. There was some foam padding taped over the wires that had deteriorated, and I’ll post photos of it. I’m curious what others have used as a replacement. One thing I could really use is the service manual, as this is the one model missing from my Sony documentation. Here’s a photo showing the radio and its condition. Also couple of the other capacitors that were bad were a couple of .47 ufd electrolytics I replaced with some film capacitors instead . they were basically a 15 ohm resistor they were so leaky . Sincerely richard copy sony radio.jpeg Size: 451.75 KB Downloads: 3

I recently built an extender for loctal tubes so I could access points with my scope and meter. I had to use an old faulty tube as the plug-in for the socket/tube under test. I purchased a nice socket base mounted to a pc board with access (numbered) terminal strips. It worked good for a while until I lost solder connections under my epoxied base. Now I have to rebuild it again. Has anyone seen a prebuilt loctal extender (breakout box) for sale? I have been unable to find any male B8G plugs, that is why I sacrificed an old tube. I also bought a handful of 8-pin loctal bases (ceramic) and the quality is absolutely garbage (you get what you pay for). The pins do not have a good latch on them so they want to pull out with tube removal. Fortunately, I tested it before going through the trouble of blindly using them as replacements. Does anyone have any links where I can buy these items, otherwise I have to cut off another tube with my dremel and go through that tough soldering exercise. Tube_Extender.png Size: 434.47 KB Downloads: 9

Ok, I'm new to the forum and put my introduction in the "Introduce Yourself" section. I'm restoring a 41-295. I have two of them and I've re-capped and re-sisted one chassis. The output transformer on the restoration unit had three output wires, with one going to the volume/tone pots. Unfortunately, that transformer was burned out, so I swapped in the donor transformer from the other unit which works fine, but must not be original, because it does not have the third wire on the output side. Still the radio works now and sounds good. I read on some other posts here that the third wire is described as a "feeback tap" and while there are workarounds, it is not entirely necessary and some say it may not even be noticeable. I have not seen a specific workaround spelled out in a way that I feel I could follow through with. Here's my symptom that I don't think is related, but I'll throw it out here: My big brown volume control seems to have a range from about 25% to 75%. If I roll it all the way to the bottom, the volume is still at about 25% (or at least it doesn't get down to silent) and if I roll it all the way to the top, it doesn't keep getting louder. The bottom end volume control issue makes me think that the gear has slipped a few teeth and even though the dial gets to zero, the potentiometer isn't getting to the bottom end. But I can't tell by looking whether there is an actual "stop" on the volume dial or whether the "stop" is the potentiometer getting to the bottom end of

Ok, I'm new to the forum and put my introduction in the "Introduce Yourself" section. I'm restoring a 41-295. I have two of them and I've re-capped and re-sisted one chassis. The output transformer on the restoration unit had three output wires, with one going to the volume/tone pots. Unfortunately, that transformer was burned out, so I swapped in the donor transformer from the other unit which works fine, but must not be original, because it does not have the third wire on the output side. Still the radio works now and sounds good. I read on some other posts here that the third wire is described as a "feeback tap" and while there are workarounds, it is not entirely necessary and some say it may not even be noticeable. I have not seen a specific workaround spelled out in a way that I feel I could follow through with. Here's my symptom that I don't think is related, but I'll throw it out here: My big brown volume control seems to have a range from about 25% to 75%. If I roll it all the way to the bottom, the volume is still at about 25% (or at least it doesn't get down to silent) and if I roll it all the way to the top, it doesn't keep getting louder. The bottom end volume control issue makes me think that the gear has slipped a few teeth and even though the dial gets to zero, the potentiometer isn't getting to the bottom end. But I can't tell by looking whether there is an actual "stop" on the volume dial or whether the "stop" is the potentiometer getting to the bottom end of

Ok, I'm new to the forum and put my introduction in the "Introduce Yourself" section. I'm restoring a 41-295. I have two of them and I've re-capped and re-sisted one chassis. The output transformer on the restoration unit had three output wires, with one going to the volume/tone pots. Unfortunately, that transformer was burned out, so I swapped in the donor transformer from the other unit which works fine, but must not be original, because it does not have the third wire on the output side. Still the radio works now and sounds good. I read on some other posts here that the third wire is described as a "feeback tap" and while there are workarounds, it is not entirely necessary and some say it may not even be noticeable. I have not seen a specific workaround spelled out in a way that I feel I could follow through with. Here's my symptom that I don't think is related, but I'll throw it out here: My big brown volume control seems to have a range from about 25% to 75%. If I roll it all the way to the bottom, the volume is still at about 25% (or at least it doesn't get down to silent) and if I roll it all the way to the top, it doesn't keep getting louder. The bottom end volume control issue makes me think that the gear has slipped a few teeth and even though the dial gets to zero, the potentiometer isn't getting to the bottom end. But I can't tell by looking whether there is an actual "stop" on the volume dial or whether the "stop" is the potentiometer getting to the bottom end of

Just found this at an antique store. Intrigued me with the 7 sw and bc band. I cant find schematics anywhere. Only 1 thread here from 15 years ago with no real information. Any one have a schematic? or other info? Thanks Bill IMG_1696[1].JPG Size: 3.83 MB Downloads: 48 IMG_1697[1].JPG Size: 3.65 MB Downloads: 48 IMG_1699[1].JPG Size: 4.46 MB Downloads: 48 IMG_1700[1].JPG Size: 3.83 MB Downloads: 48

Just found this at an antique store. Intrigued me with the 7 sw and bc band. I cant find schematics anywhere. Only 1 thread here from 15 years ago with no real information. Any one have a schematic? or other info? Thanks Bill IMG_1696[1].JPG Size: 3.83 MB Downloads: 52 IMG_1697[1].JPG Size: 3.65 MB Downloads: 52 IMG_1699[1].JPG Size: 4.46 MB Downloads: 52 IMG_1700[1].JPG Size: 3.83 MB Downloads: 52

Just found this at an antique store. Intrigued me with the 7 sw and bc band. I cant find schematics anywhere. Only 1 thread here from 15 years ago with no real information. Any one have a schematic? or other info? Thanks Bill IMG_1696[1].JPG Size: 3.83 MB Downloads: 52 IMG_1697[1].JPG Size: 3.65 MB Downloads: 52 IMG_1699[1].JPG Size: 4.46 MB Downloads: 52 IMG_1700[1].JPG Size: 3.83 MB Downloads: 52

I'm getting ready to put some walnut stain on this. Would it be a good idea to put some clear gloss over that just for durability? I have some spray gloss. IMG_0035.jpeg Size: 2.72 MB Downloads: 62 IMG_0037.jpeg Size: 2.94 MB Downloads: 62

I'm getting ready to put some walnut stain on this. Would it be a good idea to put some clear gloss over that just for durability? I have some spray gloss. IMG_0035.jpeg Size: 2.72 MB Downloads: 65 IMG_0037.jpeg Size: 2.94 MB Downloads: 65

I'm getting ready to put some walnut stain on this. Would it be a good idea to put some clear gloss over that just for durability? I have some spray gloss. IMG_0035.jpeg Size: 2.72 MB Downloads: 65 IMG_0037.jpeg Size: 2.94 MB Downloads: 65

Hello everyone, about a couple of months ago I bought from a local flea market a Toshiba AM/FM transistor radio Model 8P-823F that I had to buy a parts radio to get it up and running with because the original circuit board inside the radio was destroyed by battery corrosion and also the FM Antenna was broken, and so I got the parts radio board installed in the case of the radio and the new antenna and battery cover installed and the radio was working pretty well except on FM where the middle of the dial (between 90 and 100 MHz was barely getting any stations in, but yet above 100MHz and below 90MHz the radio worked fine and so I attempted to see if I could realign the radio but when I did that I ended up making it worse and so I broke down and bought the Sam's for the radio and I'm attempting to do a realignment following the Sam's but I've already ran into some typos in the Sam's where some of the oscillator adjustments seem to have been given the wrong frequency in the service data, for the upper end of the AM Oscillator adjustment they gave a frequency of 1670 kC but the radio's upper end only maxes out at 1630 kC on the AM Band so I tried 1630 and I got the signal in loud and clear whereas when I tried 1670 I couldn't get anything in on the radio as far as the signal generator went, and then I'm trying the 1400 kC adjustment and I can't get the radio to pull in the 1400 kC signal from my signal generator, it will pull in all of the frequencies around 1400 kC but it won't