Sony Alpha Forum Forum

Hi everyone, I’m a concert photographer running an a7 V with a 240GB Sony TOUGH CFexpress Type A card. I’ve been running into a very specific initialization issue and wanted to see if anyone has experienced the same. The Issue: If the camera sits in my bag for a while or goes into a long deep sleep, turning it on occasionally gives me a "No Card" error. The Workaround: Simply ejecting and reinserting the card instantly fixes the problem. The camera immediately mounts it and is ready to shoot. The Stress Test (The confusing part): Once the card is mounted, it performs absolutely flawlessly. After reinserting, I’ve shot massive, continuous high-bitrate video files and heavy high-speed RAW bursts during live stage performances. Zero dropouts, zero buffer freezes, and absolutely no write errors. If this was a hardware failure (bad memory block or a bent pin), I’d expect the card to crash under heavy sustained load, but it only happens during the initial "cold boot". Questions for the community: Has anyone else experienced this specific deep-sleep/cold boot timeout with CFexpress Type A cards on newer bodies? Could this just be a voltage/handshake delay when the camera first boots up and sends power to the card slot? Have you found any specific "Power Save Start Time" settings that mitigate this, or is the eject/reinsert routine just a quirk I have to live with until a firmware patch? Thanks in advance for any insights!

I purchased a new RX 10V and out of the box, the back panel display goes black during shooting and can only be restored by shutting off the camera and repowering making it unworkable for any action photography. I talked to Sony Help several times, they were unable to resolve the issue and required me to send the camera to Precision Camera for repair. Precision Camera has replicated the problem but said the repair is on a “Technical or Engineering related delay”. I asked Sony to expedite the and give me a date-certain for return, but they have refused and will not send me a new unit under warranty. Sony can resolve this issue today by sending me a new camera and battery while they work out their technical problems. I cannot recommend buying a RX10V until this problem is resolved.

I purchased a new RX 10V and out of the box, the back panel display goes black during shooting and can only be restored by shutting off the camera and repowering making it unworkable for any action photography. I talked to Sony Help several times, they were unable to resolve the issue and required me to send the camera to Precision Camera for repair. Precision Camera has replicated the problem but said the repair is on a “Technical or Engineering related delay”. I asked Sony to expedite the and give me a date-certain for return, but they have refused and will not send me a new unit under warranty. Sony can resolve this issue today by sending me a new camera and battery while they work out their technical problems. I cannot recommend buying a RX10V until this problem is resolved.

Hi, In case you mainly shoot JPEG rather than RAW and would like to add some variety to the look of your images directly in camera, you can give this a try. The idea is to combine a custom white balance preset (which defines colour rendition) with a custom creative style (which defines contrast rendition) to approximate the look of a specific type of analogue film. Please note that I wrote approximate and not reproduce because this is still far from the look of actual analogue film (for example it does not simulate film grain effects) but I found it still enables me to make a more creative use of my camera. Here is the way I have set up my A6100 camera for film simulations. NOTE: Setting up the custom white balance presets will require modifying the Amber/Blue and Green/Magenta filters (e.g. A6.5 means +6.5 in the Amber filter) whereas setting up the custom creative styles will require modifying the Contrast, Saturation and Sharpness controls (e.g. VIVID+0-2+0 means -2 in the Saturation control for the VIVID preset); please refer to your camera's user manual for how to do that. White balance presets (colour rendition): Daylight preset: ideal colour rendition in outdoor conditions Cool White preset, A6.5, G5.5: approximation of some Kodak colour films in outdoor conditions Day White preset, G0.75: approximation of some Fuji colour films in outdoor conditions Creative style presets (contrast rendition): STANDARD+0+0+0: standard colour slide film VIVID+0-2+0: standard vintage co

Hi, In case you mainly shoot JPEG rather than RAW and would like to add some variety to the look of your images directly in camera, you can give this a try. The idea is to combine a custom white balance preset (which defines colour rendition) with a custom creative style (which defines contrast rendition) to approximate the look of a specific type of analogue film. Please note that I wrote approximate and not reproduce because this is still far from the look of actual analogue film (for example it does not simulate film grain effects) but I found it still enables me to make a more creative use of my camera. Here is the way I have set up my A6100 camera for film simulations. NOTE: Setting up the custom white balance presets will require modifying the Amber/Blue and Green/Magenta filters (e.g. A6.5 means +6.5 in the Amber filter) whereas setting up the custom creative styles will require modifying the Contrast, Saturation and Sharpness controls (e.g. VIVID+0-2+0 means -2 in the Saturation control for the VIVID preset); please refer to your camera's user manual for how to do that. White balance presets (colour rendition): Daylight preset: ideal colour rendition in outdoor conditions Cool White preset, A6.5, G5.5: approximation of some Kodak colour films in outdoor conditions Day White preset, G0.75: approximation of some Fuji colour films in outdoor conditions Creative style presets (contrast rendition): STANDARD+0+0+0: standard colour slide film VIVID+0-2+0: standard vintage co

I own Sony A7S camera . I obtained for it two AF lenses. Viltrox AF 40/2.5 FE TTARTISAN AF 75/2.0 ED Optically both lenses are incredibly good. However, both have the front focus issue of AF mode. I tried second body of the same model. And obtained the same front focus issue. Anybody knows what might be cause for the problem?

I own Sony A7S camera . I obtained for it two AF lenses. Viltrox AF 40/2.5 FE TTARTISAN AF 75/2.0 ED Optically both lenses are incredibly good. However, both have the front focus issue of AF mode. I tried second body of the same model. And obtained the same front focus issue. Anybody knows what might be cause for the problem?

Hi guys and girls I have just joined and would like to say hello from North East England

You guys are my last hope. I'm losing my mind over this issue. For months (that is not an exaggeration) I've been trying to figure out a solution for my A1 ii and the 200-600 G lens (SEL200600G) as it relates to autofocus. Yes. I know " Update the firmware and it should fix everything! ". Except it didn't. Lets start with the specs in case there's a hidden cause there: A1 ii SEL200600G lens memory card: Lexar Professional CF Express A, 1 TB. Body Firmware Version: 4.0 Lens Firmware Version: .04 Optical Steady shot switch on lens: on Mode: 1 Focus Mode: Continuous AF Priority Set in AF-C: AF AF Lvl for Crossing: 2 AF Trk for Spd Chng: Responsive SUBJECT RECOGNITION REMAINS TURNED OFF WHILE SHOOTING Mechanical Shutter shooting only as electronic shutter has a chance to create rolling shutter on car wheels and ruin a photo HI drive mode (continuous shooting) Steadyshot: On SteadyShot Adjust: Auto I shoot motorsports. Primarily scenarios where the speeds average 100 mph - 200 mph. For years I shot with the A7IV and loved it. Great camera all around. I moved to an a1 ii late last year and was looking forward to race season this year. My primary lenses are the SEL200600G and the SEL50150GM. Without fail this camera has a problem with autofocus when I use it. On the A7IV I pretty much exclusively used Wide, Zone or Center Fix focus areas while shooting with back button focus held down and never had a problem. On the A1 ii, however, I hold the back button while trying to place autofo

You guys are my last hope. I'm losing my mind over this issue. For months (that is not an exaggeration) I've been trying to figure out a solution for my A1 ii and the 200-600 G lens (SEL200600G) as it relates to autofocus. Yes. I know "Update the firmware and it should fix everything!". Except it didn't. Lets start with the specs in case there's a hidden cause there: I shoot motorsports. Primarily scenarios where the speeds average 100 mph - 200 mph. For years I shot with the A7IV and loved it. Great camera all around. I moved to an a1 ii late last year and was looking forward to race season this year. My primary lenses are the SEL200600G and the SEL50150GM. Without fail this camera has a problem with autofocus when I use it. On the A7IV I pretty much exclusively used Wide, Zone or Center Fix focus areas while shooting with back button focus held down and never had a problem. On the A1 ii, however, I hold the back button while trying to place autofocus on the subject and, as its moving, either the mass of green squares or the solid green square (varies based on focus area mode in use) tries to detect the subject as it moves. However on this camera it seems to get very confused between background, subject and foreground and jump around to anything other than the subject. I have noticed that this is consistently worse the further away from the subject that I am. If I am zoomed to 600m and I am standing 100' away from the subject on a hill, for instance, it has a much, much hard

I have an a7Rvi and am planning a long trip for which I want to limit what I take. I would like to review my daily shots off camera in order to decide what to keep and what to delete, but to keep weight down I'll be taking my iPad, rather than a laptop, and so want to use that as a display. As I understand it, I cannot view my Sony RAW files directly on the iPad without importing them first into Lightroom, for example, but I don't want to send all these very large files to the cloud. I'll be backing up my photos using the second card slot on the camera, but ideally, I'd like also to backup selected photos to a Lexar ES5 SSD. I'll also be taking a card reader for my CF Express cards. My problem is in trying to understand the most efficient workflow in order to achieve my objectives. I have researched on Google, but am getting quite confused, so any help would be appreciated.

Since early 2026, I have developed RawCull, a dedicated Sony ARW FF photo culling app for macOS and Apple Silicon Macs. Version 2.3.5 is the current release for macOS Tahoe and is available on the Apple App Store. The most compelling development now involves macOS Golden Gate and the new CoreAI Framework, which allows local AI models to run on your Mac. Both RawCull and RawCullFB supports all .ARW files including Sony A7V and Sony A7RVI.. For the macOS Golden Gate beta, two beta apps are available: RawCull with AI support and RawCullFB (an ARW file browser) with AI support for semantic search. Both RawCull and RawCullFB are sandboxed applications that are signed and notarized by Apple. All apps are opensource and free. Link to all apps: https://github.com/rsyncOSX/RsyncOSX Link to doc about RawCull and AI: https://rawcull.netlify.app/docs/ai-in-rawcull/ai/ (includes more info about CLIP, similarity and sematic search)