STRIDA FORUM Forum

Hi Robert san, A set—likely a used one—is currently listed on Mercari, a Japanese peer-to-peer marketplace app (and website), but the price is extremely high. I’m not sure how that price comes across given how weak the yen is right now… Since the platform doesn’t support international transactions, you might be able to get it by using a proxy service, but I question whether it’s worth the time, effort, and expense involved. メルカリ STRiDA ストライダ 18インチカーボンホイール 前後セット by メルカリ STRiDA ストライダ 18インチカーボンホイール 前後セットをメルカリでお得に通販、誰でも安心して簡単に売り買いが楽しめるフリマサービスです。新品/未使用品も多数、支払いはクレジットカード・キャリア決済・コンビニ・銀行ATMが利用可能で、品物が届いてから出品者に入金される独自システムのため安心です。 Price: JPY 157000

Just click on my avatar and hit “message”. Carbon rims (with Schwalbe Kojak usually) - sorry, no idea where to get those nowadays.

Hello yes how do I private message you? Do you know where i can get those carbon wheels from? Or are they carbon rims? Does it work with the strida black matte sx thsts 18inch? Lg aus Wien

Thank you very much for the info and encouragement ! Finally somebody with (much) stronger hands than myself managed to loosen the bolts, once the pin was in place and the bolts tighened again, everything was ok. If it becomes misaligned again, I might unscrew them comletely and add some liquid thread locking. Thanks agian to this forum !

Hi Catherine san, Blackstridaaustria: Btw - some of this stuff is present at your bolts right now - and it looses its locking force at ~ 200°C. Regarding the application of heat to deactivate thread-locking compound, using a torch is not recommended as it can damage other components, while a hair dryer—reaching only around 120°C—does not provide sufficient heat. To avoid applying excessive heat, I recommend using a heat gun capable of reaching the 200°C–500°C range. Regurds, Dorenine

Bonjour Catherine, Catherine: Though a few months ago the top tube ball got loose from its rubber socket and I had to force it back in (softly !), can that be a cause ? Possibly, the shaft of the ball could be bent, but that is rather rare. Catherine: I tried loosening the black bolts on either side of the pin, the idea being to loosen them just enough to move the pin slightly and seat the tube correctly and then tighten again. Will that work ? I’m pretty sure that should work and I’d try exactly that first. Catherine: But the bolts are too tight, won’t move…. I don’t have a longer wrench, so I might either knock on the hexagonal key lightly with a hammer, or apply something like WD40. Is that a good idea ? With that age, it is just normal that threads start to rust and seize. A good knock with a hammer on the key directly (in bolt axis direction) might help, also applying (moderate, ~200°C) heat. Try to find a matching piece of tube to elongate your hex key! I personally do not trust WD40 and prefer thin gun oils. ***Worst case scenario here: If the bolts brake, you have to replace part 216 - not a big deal Catherine: Also not clear to me what the glue or cement in this post was used for. I guess you mean the blue dots on the original bolts? That is a special sort of dry thread locking compound. It can be replaced (without any problem) with liquid thread locking compound, as like: getgoods.com Loctite® 243 1370555 Schraubensicherung Festigkeit: mittel 5 ml | getgoods getgood

Hello, I think I have the same pb with my strida mini (not a recent model !) : also like another post by Yokohama strida in 2022 : cannot-fully-seat-bottom-tube-on-lock-pin-part I don’t know why it happened as there has been no shock or fall : probably not by having my 12 years old granson try the bike (successfully !). Though a few months ago the top tube ball got loose from its rubber socket and I had to force it back in (softly !), can that be a cause ? No visible obstacle to the full seating of the bottom tube hole, the latch at the top of the pin seems ok, so alignment seems to be the pb. I tried loosening the black bolts on either side of the pin, the idea being to loosen them just enough to move the pin slightly and seat the tube correctly and then tighten again. Will that work ? But the bolts are too tight, won’t move…. I don’t have a longer wrench, so I might either knock on the hexagonal key lightly with a hammer, or apply something like WD40. Is that a good idea ? I don’t have any tool to check the torque, but I expect tigntening as hard as I can (manually) won’t be too much… Also not clear to me what the glue or cement in this post was used for. Having in mind that in France there no longer is any Strida maintenance service provider, and other bike repair shops are more than reluctant to do anything on a Strida, so I have to be cautious !

You may have already checked this, but I’m sharing a thread here that I think you might find helpful. Broken bottom tube: why? Strida Problems and Answers Hi all I would appreciate any engineers’ (or similar experts’) opinions about this. As the subject states, the bottom tube on my Strida 5.2 recently broke. The interesting thing is, the break looks extremely similar to the fracture suffered by the fake Strida, as posted by Amuro on another thread ([url] Keep Strida Original - say NO to Fakes! - #103 by StridaD ]). Same place, just above the front weld where the pedal bracket is welded to the bottom tube. After the break occurred, the steering p…

Pablo79 san, Nice to meet you. I ride the reinforced version of the LT, but the frame breakage issues I hear about generally seem to affect the unreinforced models. I don’t think a fracture would progress instantly, so I suspect that if you ride carefully and stay vigilant, you could avoid a major accident—though, being human, we do make mistakes… If you find the low price appealing despite the risk of frame failure, I think it’s fine to go ahead and buy it. There’s a saying that goes something like, “If the reason you’re buying it is the price, don’t; if the reason you’re not buying it is the price, do.” I wonder if that holds true here?

Hello, fellow Strida forum members. I’d like to ask the experts whether to buy a Strida from the initial 5.0 batch, you know, with the unreinforced crankset. Given the attractive price and no signs of micro-cracks, should I pass anyway? I’m asking because I haven’t found any statistics on the scale of this defect. Could you give me some advice, and I apologize in advance for my English; it might be as poor as the frames in these units. 3 posts - 2 participants Read full topic