Foro Boxster General Discussions

The Contest: Fall is one of the best seasons to capture a photo of your car at its best. The changing colors of the leaves from green to yellow, orange, and red make the perfect backdrop for amazing photos. Show us your best fall drive photo in our Fall Drives Photo Contest! We want to see your car with the changing fall colors, wherever you are. Submissions are now open through 11:59 PM PST on October 18th. Afterwards, we'll create a thread where YOU vote on the winner. The winner will receive a $100 Pelican Parts Gift Certificate. To Enter: 1. Post one high quality photo of your car in this thread or email us at pelicanforums @ pelicanparts .com (remove the spaces) To Vote: - We will compile the submissions and notify everyone when voting will commence in this thread. - A poll posted to the contest thread which will allow you to vote for your favorites. If you have any additional questions, please do not hesitate to send a PM.

The Contest: Fall is one of the best seasons to capture a photo of your car at its best. The changing colors of the leaves from green to yellow, orange, and red make the perfect backdrop for amazing photos. Show us your best fall drive photo in our Fall Drives Photo Contest! We want to see your car with the changing fall colors, wherever you are. Submissions are now open through 11:59 PM PST on October 18th. Afterwards, we'll create a thread where YOU vote on the winner. The winner will receive a $100 Pelican Parts Gift Certificate. To Enter: 1. Post one high quality photo of your car in this thread or email us at pelicanforums @ pelicanparts .com (remove the spaces) To Vote: - We will compile the submissions and notify everyone when voting will commence in this thread. - A poll posted to the contest thread which will allow you to vote for your favorites. If you have any additional questions, please do not hesitate to send a PM.

The Contest: Fall is one of the best seasons to capture a photo of your car at its best. The changing colors of the leaves from green to yellow, orange, and red make the perfect backdrop for amazing photos. Show us your best fall drive photo in our Fall Drives Photo Contest! We want to see your car with the changing fall colors, wherever you are. Submissions are now open through 11:59 PM PST on October 18th. Afterwards, we'll create a thread where YOU vote on the winner. The winner will receive a $100 Pelican Parts Gift Certificate. To Enter: 1. Post one high quality photo of your car in this thread or email us at pelicanforums @ pelicanparts .com (remove the spaces) To Vote: - We will compile the submissions and notify everyone when voting will commence in this thread. - A poll posted to the contest thread which will allow you to vote for your favorites. If you have any additional questions, please do not hesitate to send a PM.

I replaced the 4 channel amp in the frunk of my base 01 986 with the 6 channel amp. Now I need to run new wires from the amp to the new speakers I installed in the rear storage box. Anyone have a guide? Not sure if it matters but I replaced the factory radio with a Sony touchscreen. I used a converter harness to connect Sony harness to Porsche harness. Thanks!

I replaced the 4 channel amp in the frunk of my base 01 986 with the 6 channel amp. Now I need to run new wires from the amp to the new speakers I installed in the rear storage box. Anyone have a guide? Not sure if it matters but I replaced the factory radio with a Sony touchscreen. I used a converter harness to connect Sony harness to Porsche harness. Thanks!

At present I route the frunk release cable through the hole for the tow hook so I can easily reach it just under the plastic cover if I need to open the frunk when the battery is dead. I secure the loose end of the release cable with safety wire so it doesn't flop around and get hard to reach when I need it. If I put a front license plate bracket into that tow hook hole I will need to find a new routing for the frunk cable release. Any suggestions?

At present I route the frunk release cable through the hole for the tow hook so I can easily reach it just under the plastic cover if I need to open the frunk when the battery is dead. I secure the loose end of the release cable with safety wire so it doesn't flop around and get hard to reach when I need it. If I put a front license plate bracket into that tow hook hole I will need to find a new routing for the frunk cable release. Any suggestions?

The light behind the speedo display is dim in my 2004 Boxster SE, so I will pull the instrument cluster to change what may be a non-functional bulb. While I am in there I should replace all the other easily replaced bulbs. Here is my shopping list. Am I wrong about any of these? ... 12v 3w: 999-631-304-90 / analog gauges (4 needed) 12v 1.5w: 999-631-303-90 / digital display (3 needed) 12v 1.2w: 999-631-302-90 / idiot lights (unknown if these can even be replaced) As you can see, I need to know how many 1.2W bulbs I'm going to need for the idiot lights. Or let me know that these cannot be easily replaced and I will be content to leave them alone since they all seem to be working just fine.

The light behind the speedo display is dim in my 2004 Boxster SE, so I will pull the instrument cluster to change what may be a non-functional bulb. While I am in there I should replace all the other easily replaced bulbs. Here is my shopping list. Am I wrong about any of these? ... 12v 3w: 999-631-304-90 / analog gauges (4 needed) 12v 1.5w: 999-631-303-90 / digital display (3 needed) 12v 1.2w: 999-631-302-90 / idiot lights (unknown if these can even be replaced) As you can see, I need to know how many 1.2W bulbs I'm going to need for the idiot lights. Or let me know that these cannot be easily replaced and I will be content to leave them alone since they all seem to be working just fine.

I just changed the secondary shut off and control valves on my 1998. A few notes that might be helpful not covered in videos. I went through the front firewall to do this. Remove the passenger seat and panel. Removing the generator required the idler pulley bolt to be completely removed. The generator would not rotate up around the lower bolt. Only the generator cable needed to be detached at the top junction box, the rear cable is the generator. A pair of serrated tooth Channel locks are needed to pinch open the hose clamps. A 10" long nose pliers can be used but more difficult to keep on the tabs. Pull the control valve off the hose from the check valve then the pump hose. The hose on the check valve has to be removed before the check valve can be unscrewed. The connectors for the knock sensor and electric changeover valve needed to be removed for better access. They have a tab at the wire end that has to be depressed. To break the check valve free I made a 27mm crows foot from 1/4" aluminum plate. The arm is about 2". The leg on the forward side had to be narrow to clear the electric valve, about 3/8". Using a long 3/8" socket adapter I could hit on the crows foot to break the valve free. Once loose it turned off by hand. I used PTFE tape on the valve threads. The Channel lock pliers was used on the upper pipe to tighten the new valve. If tightening with a crows foot, be careful not to break the electric valve which limits the swing. WD-40 in the hoses made them slide easi

I just changed the secondary shut off and control valves on my 1998. A few notes that might be helpful not covered in videos. I went through the front firewall to do this. Remove the passenger seat and panel. Removing the generator required the idler pulley bolt to be completely removed. The generator would not rotate up around the lower bolt. Only the generator cable needed to be detached at the top junction box, the rear cable is the generator. A pair of serrated tooth Channel locks are needed to pinch open the hose clamps. A 10" long nose pliers can be used but more difficult to keep on the tabs. Pull the control valve off the hose from the check valve then the pump hose. The hose on the check valve has to be removed before the check valve can be unscrewed. The connectors for the knock sensor and electric changeover valve needed to be removed for better access. They have a tab at the wire end that has to be depressed. To break the check valve free I made a 27mm crows foot from 1/4" aluminum plate. The arm is about 2". The leg on the forward side had to be narrow to clear the electric valve, about 3/8". Using a long 3/8" socket adapter I could hit on the crows foot to break the valve free. Once loose it turned off by hand. I used PTFE tape on the valve threads. The Channel lock pliers was used on the upper pipe to tighten the new valve. If tightening with a crows foot, be careful not to break the electric valve which limits the swing. WD-40 in the hoses made them slide easi

I spent a lot of time searching for whp and torque data that objectively isolates the impact of an ECU flash on a 2.7L 986 Boxster. I wanted the same car, same dyno, similar ambient conditions with the only variable being the flash. Finding a clean independently verified AB comparison has proven impossible so I decided earlier this year to do my own. I used an off the shelf 93 octane flash from a popular tuner. It's the same dynojet dyno and operator, similar ambient conditions. The only mod present in both tests is racing headers with open exhaust. Everything else is stock and there are no changes to the car between tests except the flash. Ignore the vertical line which is a slider that, of course, doesn't work in the post. In the overlay baseline is red and flashed blue. Note that the dip just before 5K rpm is the variocam.