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After working on #1 extruder, Puppy Error 1754

I had a failed print that ended up gooping up my #1 extruder massively. I unhooked the electrical connection, and got the strap off and cleaned it up in the garage. After I got it cleaned up, the printer worked and I was going to go over re-calibrate it. All the heads were working. I looked at the head I had fixed, and I didn’t a have the cable protector on, so I tried to put it on, but couldn’t. I stretched the cable taught during my machinations. I evenntually just took the plug back off, put the cable connector on, and reconnected the electrical connector. I think I had the power on for all this. Not sure exactly when, but very soon after that, the XL5 started orange screen of death and Puppy Error 1754. Did the QR code, and I updated the firmware to the latest copy. Installed and then re-started and still bogged down at “Puppy Error, 1754”. Extruders all light up blue , but when the error code comes on, 3,4,5 go from blue to dark. I checked all the connections as the directions said. I on the back the boards have green lights on all of them. I pulled a couple of the fuses and they look fine. Did plugging and un-plugging the #1 head while powered up do this? Did I damage the #1 cable? A board? Anyway to differentially test this? Just wondering if there is a simple fix before I get on with PRUSA. Is there a way that I can at least run it with 2,3,4 extruders? Really like my XL5, and I just got my CMYKAgAu filament set.

Color change at layer missing in Prusaslicer 3.0?

The right-click option on the layer sliders in preview mode appears to be missing the options for manual or automatic color changes in 3.0 (3.0.0-alpha11). A single-click on the slider only shows "Add Pause" and "Add Custom G-code". Is there a different UI element for this feature now, or is it missing?

PETG Filament between sock and the discs

Today I printed a part with new and dried Prusament PETG and when the part was done, I noticed that the filament is coming out above the sock? See the picture below. When I upgraded my Core One+ to INDX, this nozzle seemed to be clogged. There was a lot of skipping and no extrusion. I got it working again by heating it up and pushing on the PLA filament, it printed fine after that. But now that the filament is coming out on the wrong places, is new to me. Also the yellow stuff around the temperature sensor seems weird to me. Anyone encountered this before?

Modell Krake

Moin in die Runde, kann mir jemand erzählen wo ich die bunte Krake zum testen finden kann? Vielen Dank!

Spooljoin possible?

Prusa XL and MMU seems to support spool joining. I'd like to fill 2 Nozzles with the same material and once the first is empty it should automatically continue the print with the second nozzle. Is this possible currently? Thanks! Edit: followed this tutorial https://www.printables.com/article/how-to-assign-spooljoin-filament-from-prusaconnect-rZvbwjZ i will try my print with this settings and report back once it worked/failed.

Foaming on Vase mode

I have just changed to a 0.6mm nozzle for the first time and on the first print, it started to foam up. What is strange is there is a 5mm block at the bottom where it just regular printing but as soon as it switches to Vase mode, the foaming starts (see image below). It has happened on four prints and the failure always happens at the same point. I am using Filamentive Transparent Recycled PETG. I have printed hundreds of hours with this filament before on the standard 0.4mm nozzle with no issues. but as soon as I switch to the 0.6mm nozzle this started. I tried printing a benchy, and it was fine for the first half then it started to foam also. I thought it could be clogged nozzle, so I have done multiple cold pulls (both Automatic and Manual). I can't see any pieces in the filament. I have also tried multiple reels of the same filament.

PA11-CF on 0,6 HF obxidian nozzle - what parameters do you use?

Hello, I'm looking for some experience printing the prusament PA11CF, as even though im using all prusa parts appearently the slicer profile is either quite wrong or the factory sealed filament sample was absoltuely soaking wet and i cannot find much info on what to expect in terms of print speed and such. I finally got my 0,6mm obxidian HF nozzle for my CORE one in hopes of utilizing some CF or GF filled filaments for parts that need to be thin yet rigid. I have had great success printing with PETG-CF. I have also bought samples of different brands PA-CF blends, and decided to try the prusament PA11 CF blend first. I inserted it into the printer immediately after taking it out of the packaging and ran a couple prints, so unless it "somehow became wet" while in the factory sealed in the plastic bag, moisture should not have been an issue, yet i got these weird thick short strands wherever the printer lifted off the print. I first tried to increase nozzle temp from 285 to 290, that led to the filament straight up flowing out of the nozzle even between the segments where it was supposed to, so i went the other way, down to around 270-275 °C, which seemed to have helped somewhat. I also tried lowering the speed, down to 10-20mm/s for the whole print which is definitely not how id like to use it in the future, but maybe it helped too. Can layer height also be a factor if the CF aggregates were too large (which they shouldnt be)? I first printed on 0,1mm then raised to 0,15mm. Tha

benchy overhangs are dripping

Hello, I'm having trouble printing overhangs on my parts and can't seem to fix the issue; do you have any suggestions?

Y-axis tensioner

Hello, I recently started printing with ASA and I am having problems with the tensioners for the y-axis plate. I have determined that the problem is the PETG parts that came with my printer. I would like to use the PCCF or something similar. Is there a place to purchase just those parts? I tried printing the new parts out of ASA but the belt lost tension during the print and the quality is too poor to be usable.

Issues with pulleys on Core One + Gen 2 upgrade

I have a Core One +, which was upgraded from a MK3S, and ordered the Gen 2 upgrade kit. I am having trouble with the new belt pulleys in the kit. I managed to get one of the new pulleys on one motor, even though it was a very tight fit, but I couldn't get the second pulley to slide on to the motor. Prusa have sent two new sets of pulleys, none of which worked, which suggests to me the new pulleys don't work with the original motors. Prusa support are escalating (disappointed that customer service couldn't make a decision). Has anyone else experienced this, and been able to resolve the issue?

nextruder stepper motor clicking and ticking, even without gearbox

Hello All I bought this new Prusa Core One+ less than 5 months ago. I was happy with it, untill it started having extrusion issues after 3 months of use. It printed around 2 kg of PLA. Multiple cold pulls did not help, neither did changing or drying the filament. I contacted the Prusa Support. I can't deny they try to find a solution. In the meantime I have replaced in this order: Nozzles Nextruder Gearbox Nextruder Stepper motor (twice) Main cable Loveboard ( the small one on the nextruder assembly) xBuddy Board The replacement parts were provided by Prusa under warranty, only the nozzles I had to provide myself. Prusa asks to send the replaced electronics back, that is fine by me. Unfortunately, the printer still has these extrusion issues during random prints, even after replacing all those parts during the last 2 months. I have now spent around 20+ hours in the last 2 months, with the Prusa Support to disassemble and assemble again and again, taking videos and pictures, and in a later stage replacing parts mentioned above. In the end I can never trust this printer to start a print, and not make a big mess of it because of inconsistent extrusion. I am this close to sending the whole printer back to Prusa. I have no clues anymore, neither does the Prusa support team. My only clue is that this Nextruder stepper motor makes a lot of clicking/ticking sounds when it is simply spinning around, eg. during the gearbox alignment procedure you can start from the display. It is just

FreeCAD to Prusa Slicer - Best Export format

I guys, A noob here, I'm putting the effort to envolve me in 3D printing with a new CoreOne+Gen2 (indx 8). I use NobaraLinux (official_fedora base) so the 3D software combo i came along was FreeCAD with Prusa slicer. The big question that I have for now is, knowing what method will generate more precise/detailed results , export from FreeCAD in .STEP and let Prusa slicer determine the best mesh of triangles, or still it's better to generate a high-poly in FreeCAD then export it in .STL or .3MF format into PrusaSlicer? Thanks in advance.

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