forums.hybridz.org

I am about the furthest thing from a computer/IT expert, so I will leave it here for others more savvy than I to chime in with tech tips and advice for you. However, if you haven't already done so, click on the vertical row of three dots in the upper right corner of your Chrome browser window and that will open up your browser settings. There you can select your desired levels of security, privacy, etc. There's a "Settings" selection at the bottom of the pop-up menu that takes you to most of your selectable items. (Sorry if I'm telling you something you already know.) I should have also mentioned that your hardware and operating system can greatly affect web browsing speeds and response times. My wife's Apple Macbook Pro browses the web WAY faster, with fewer ads, than my Dell laptop....on which I've tried several web browsers (Chrome, Edge, Firefox, etc.) Mozilla Firefox seems to give me the best overall performance for web browsing.

I figured it was necessary to keep the light on. Is it still the same as before the ads turn off with a premium membership or donation? Or are they always on no matter what? I use Chrome, so not sure what settings, do you have a page with instructions on how to set this up, membership benefits, ect? Happy to help. Thanks Jeff

Yes, unfortunately the pop-up ads are a necessary evil. Active membership and annual donations have dropped way off, so Dan has to rely on the revenue generated by ads to keep the forum going. There are ways to control it, however, depending on which web browser you use (and the default settings you've selected within the browser.) Let me know if you'd like to merge your old account with your new account....we can usually do that fairly painlessly. PM me if you'd like to. Cheers.

08-30-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: Started the day with putting some cut leather on the upholstery sections that needed to be covered. Amazing my new seat covers, have managed to have a worn spot....but it's all better now. Working in tight quarters these things happen.:) Then I went ahead and bolted the seats down in then vacuumed it all up and installed the hidden toggle switch to turn on so the car will start, my theft deterrent, and wired in the brake light switch....just running the wires over to the passenger footwell.... labeled, so I can start on that soon. I finally managed to get the last piece of the end links on the steering rack off, and then wire wheeled them down really clean, and used anti-seize and installed the Moog end links for now...I will have to adjust when I am ready to align the front wheels, but for now, a lot of progress made! The whole car is about 75% done already and it's only been a year! PICS:

I used to be a lifetime member years ago before I was away for like 10 years. Had to re-start my account since an old email was gone. So I'm no longer a life-time member, is this why I get such a ridiculous amount of pop-ups that I literally cant even read post? I hate Facebook, but its free and you can read what people post. Is there any solution, or are the ads the only thing keeping this plate alive? Thanks, I really want to be here and share content with others, but it is so frustrating. I want to do a new thread on Flow-bench testing and actual flow bench results, but its out of control. Thanks Jeff

Nope, smart idea. I’ll do that next weekend. I’ve got some shorty headers, but if I need to get a new exhaust I might go long tube. Not sure if the old exhaust clears my new fuel cell, I need to check on that.

Have you mounted the headers to the engine while on the engine stand with the cradle in place? It will be much easier to clearance your cradle before everything is in the car.

Made some progress on the engine cradle. I should be ready to drop the engine in and mark where to attach it to the frame. I’ll be using some angle iron to sit on the frame so the cradle will be welded to that then bolted to the frame.

09-29-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: I mounted the plate I made to cover the hole on the side of the head with some stainless bolts I got, then I mounted up both front brake calipers, tied in the brake lines and zip tied the excess up. Then I went ahead and pulled the TC rods out, cleaned them up and painted them with some rustoleum gloss black, and wire wheeled up the washer plates and installed my new Urethane bushings. I normally would have gone with rubber, but the polys were half the price, so I will use them. While under there, I pulled out the cut off pieces that were the original sway bar end links, and installed the new ones I have had waiting. They are all rubber. Then I moved on to the drive shaft. Because of my trans layout, the factory e~brake tube going across the tunnel had to be cut out. This is fine, as the way I use the car I don't need it, and I can leave it in gear when parked. I suppose at a later date I could fashion up a cable to what is left on there to tie it back in.....I left a piece of the pipe about 1/2 long sticking out for just that. I then mounted up the drive shaft and got the bolts cinched down correctly. Then the problematic part of the day, the end links on the steering rack. Well they just didn't want to come off! It is obvious they haven't ever been adjusted, so I got one off and the other is soaking in PB Blaster! I have the end links I got from Z Car Depot ready to go, they are from MOOG. While under the car, I looked up and saw a world of polish

I got a tradition with my dad that I took over, every time we buy a new vehicle we stop at Mc Donalds on the way back and get a milkshake. This also gives us some time to look and admire our new purchase. We will probably continue this tradition this weekend as I’ll be looking at a 2015 BMW M550D touring (almost 400hp diesel station wagon) as a new daily driver.

There was a discussion about wrapping exhaust vs ceramic coating vs high temp paint somewhere here. One person noted that changing from VHT Black to VHT White on a Corvair engines pushrod tubes lowered oil temps. You might try painting the bowls underneath white. You may also want to try fabricating aluminum heat shields that mount under the carb hold-down nuts instead of under the carb base. Wrapping the header or ceramic would help immensely.

I am looking to acquire some 84-87 Z31 5 lug axle parts. I need the rear stub axles out by the wheel and inner axle flanges. I am trying to do a 5 lug conversion on my 280ZX. If anyone has these parts shoot me a message with the price! Thanks!