I’m rebuilding my th350 and it was going smoothly then when I went to tighten the pump down the input shaft has no end play and I can barely turn it, all my bearings are in the right way, and there are no shims on the pump.
Question about paint cracking on fiberglass
www.hotrodders.com/threads/question-about-paint-cracking-on-fiberglass.161962 ↗Foro XenForo en inglés. 5 secciones seguidas: Body - Exterior, Engine, Hotrodders' Lounge, Hotrodding Basics y Transmission - Rearend.
- Discusiones por día
- 4
- Discusiones recopiladas
- 140
- Mensajes por día
- 22
- Secciones
- 5
- Fuentes seguidas
- 5
- Motor
- XenForo
Últimas discusiones
Recogido cada 4 horas desde el feed público del foro. Solo se reproducen el título, el enlace y el principio del mensaje; cada enlace remite a la fuente.
4 hour work day for me at the shop. Used the time to do a valve body swap on a '01 Jetta 1.8t auto .... I successfully installed a transbrake on the car .... that however wasn't my intention. Its in 2 gears at once in park, all other gears (R/N/D/2/1) are forward gears.... they all seam to be first gear. I have it torn back down most of the way. Tuesday I'll actually get the VB back out and see whats up.... but part of me wants to take it out for a test drive the way it is just for the... The "What Did You Work On Today" thread
So I need a rearend that is 59"-60" axle flange to axle flange for my 1951 Studebaker pickup. I have found through the internet that a 1999-2005 Ford Explorer 8.8 come in at that measurement. They also have disc brakes and posi units are easy to find. I would like a gear ratio of about 3.25-3.40 and found that they did make a 3.27 ratio but it is hard to find.So ideally a Ford Explorer 8.8 3.27 posi is what I need. I've researched the 8.8 parts and carriers and ring and pinion are all easy... Ford 8.8 differential questions
Guys, you guys have been with me through this from the beginning. Eric, Bogie, and Johnson Grass have all been a great help. I have gone elsewhere for help. Yes I have turned to the dark side and have come up with some very interesting conclusions. I'm going to try to include the thread here that I have gone through with chat GPT in the last few weeks. Hopefully it takes, and you guys are able to see our conclusion so far. Just to get you familiar this is about my 1987 Monte Carlo Super... The $40,000 Turd!
Im going to use a grease on a valve cover gasket so that next time it comes off the gasket doesnt stick. Id like to stick to a petroleum based grease so any that squeezes out into head just dissolves into oil. I was going to use wheel bearing grease but I'm nervous that the lithium soap additives might cause issues if it got into engine. What grease should I use?
Built my '39 Chev over 5 years ago and put a 700R4 in it. It's been great until just a couple weeks ago when the transmission developed a bad leak at the rear tailshaft around the driveline yoke. No big deal I thought as I've done these a number of times. So I pulled the old seal and checked it on the driveline yoke to see how snug it was. It was loose, so put a new seal in and it still leaked. So I installed a new tailshaft bushing, and yet another seal. The yoke is only 14,000 miles on it... 700R4 rear seal leaking
I have a 50s pickup and someone years ago sprayed the whole interior with rubberized undercoating. I've been scrapping away for a while and have most of it removed but he whole inside of the roof has it and it is really stuck. I think the heat from the sun on the outside of the roof has baked it on. Any suggestions of how to remove it??
Hey Guys, hope everyone is doing well. I'm planning on upgrading the cam in my 383 SBC to a 230/236 later this year, so I'm starting to peruse the available 2800-3200 torque converters. My current converter is from PATC, but they aren't selling converters anymore. So I'm wondering what converters offer a good level of performance, reliability, and value. I'm looking for one rated at 450-500HP. What's the best thing that I can get for $450-$650? Or, how much do I need to spend to get the best... 4L60e Torque Converters - best bang for the buck...
Over the last 40 years or so I have met lots of engine builders. From big rigs, to military machines, to the back yard hobbyist. And it seems everyone has their own style of tightening fasteners. For the sake of this post, lets stick with heads/rods/main cap fasteners. -oil threads only with 10w-30 -oil threads and bolt head completely -use ‘ARP’ style lube under bolt head only -use no lube at all I’m sure there is many more, but, how do you do it? Toque to yield? Straight foot pounds... How do 'you' tighten engine fasteners ??
I used to be on here as studebaker62 but can remember my info. Anyways ive had enough of my overcammed 350 in my car and its chugging low rpm BS. Engine came with car. Anyway im about to purchase a good running stock 350 I'd like to install a cam either the summit 1103 cam or 1785 cam. But its been a number of years since my last cam swap. And I here all the horror stories. I've heard everything from cheap metal to lifter bores being worn out. No zddp in new oils etc.. in correctly machined... Flat tappet cam failures
I just put a set of Edelbrock 7310 head gaskets on ... and I pinched a paper towel in between one . ( ****! ) Can I just loosing this head and remove without replacing the gasket? I Installed fender headers and some rockers and some (paper towel)....
So I'm rebuilding this turbo 350. Before I disassembled it I tried to check end play on the input shaft and there was nothing.Both the input and output shafts turned so I didn't think anything of it. I don't know the history of the trans it is just a core I picked up years ago. I continued to tear it down and noticed that between the front planetary and the front planetary reaction carrier (see picture) there was 2 thrust washers stacked together?? I know it is not right to stack thrust... Turbo 350 end play issue
140 discusiones recopiladas desde el 1 de septiembre de 2026. Seguir este foro por palabra clave →