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Newby to the Forum, Im 56 yo, I used to ride Motocross and trials here in Victoria, Australia back in the late 80's though to early 2000's. I was younger/fitter then... The kids have grown up and are doing their own thing now so my interest in motorcycles has come back to haunt me after a 20 something year lay-off. Looking forward to chatting. 👍 Current rides.... '14 Gas Gas TXT R 250 '81 Montesa Cota 200.

Newby to the Forum, Im 56 yo, I used to ride Motocross and trials here in Victoria, Australia back in the late 80's though to early 2000's. I was younger/fitter then... The kids have grown up and are doing their own thing now so my interest in motorcycles has come back to haunt me after a 20 something year lay-off. Looking forward to chatting. 👍 Current rides.... '14 Gas Gas TXT R 250 '81 Montesa Cota 200.

Hi ti all, replacing base gasket and I notice the existing one is made of a thick gasket paper and the genuine ones I see for sale all have the port cutouts where my old one does not. Only recently purchased and appeared to run ok but was leaking around the base gasket when hot. Many thanks for any advice. Cheers Rob from NZ.

Hi ti all, replacing base gasket and I notice the existing one is made of a thick gasket paper and the genuine ones I see for sale all have the port cutouts where my old one does not. Only recently purchased and appeared to run ok but was leaking around the base gasket when hot. Many thanks for any advice. Cheers Rob from NZ.

Hi everyone, this is my first post here. I just bought a 2008 rev3 250 and i absolutely love it... but the rear brake pedal is just too uncomfortable. it sits way too high and i have to keep my foot tilted upwards all the time and no amount of adjustment can bring the brake pedal at the same level as the foot peg without making it unusable due to it touching the frame. I would also argue that the rear brake is very weak even though the whole system is in good condition. Any amount of help is welcome!

Hi everyone, this is my first post here. I just bought a 2008 rev3 250 and i absolutely love it... but the rear brake pedal is just too uncomfortable. it sits way too high and i have to keep my foot tilted upwards all the time and no amount of adjustment can bring the brake pedal at the same level as the foot peg without making it unusable due to it touching the frame. I would also argue that the rear brake is very weak even though the whole system is in good condition. Any amount of help is welcome!

Hey, All! I'm slowly getting work done on my project TY250A. I got the swingarm "repaired", sandblasted, primered and shot some rattle can enamel on it today. The old "bumps" on the the swingarm that the snail chain adjusters push off of were really worn with grooves somehow. Maybe someone (previous owner) let the rear axle get loose? I say this because there is also damage to the dust collar on the drive side of the sprocket and the inside of the swingarm itself. I dunno how it could've happened, but it did. I ground off the old bumps, and drilled and tapped for 6mm allen headed bolts for the adjusters to work from: Now, I'm working on my fiberglass seat base. I made new brackets for the seat's rear mount before I found out that Feked sells them. Now, I'm sanding off the yellow flaking paint the PO put on, as well as some of the original yellow, down to the bare 'glass. My questions are: Does painting fiberglass actually require any "special" type of primer and paint? I'd really like to just put on some paint I can easily/inexpensively buy for now, and can use for future repairs. Something like a rattle can primer with rattle can hi-gloss enamel over that? I don't really want to shoot, say, colored gel coat on, or some of the more pricey marine products. Sorry for what's probably a stupid question. I suppose I need to say that I want this bike to be something I ride and crash, not a restoration showpiece. It's been 40+ years since I've done any bodywork involving fiberglass,

Well I am finally done round 1. The Montesa is back together and running. I tore it down to the frame, painted and rebuilt it. New rear shocks, tires, seat and 1 new lower fork. It took me 1.5 weeks to get the forks off and now I can rebuild the front end in 30 minutes. Fun and a lot of learning. I still need HELP! Front forks are rebuilt but I have parts missing. 1 fork was seized - it was missing the lower fork piston bushing. I had to get one machined and then honed down to fit. It works amazing now BUT this fork is 1.5" shorter than the other. The shock I did not rebuild it missing something in the top half of the fork that stops the piston. Explanation - Front Fork - Top Nut - main spring, piston - So top half of fork when I look down I see a square stopper that stops the fork piston. On the shock i rebuilt when you look in you see a stopper or spacer in the tube. I did not want to try to push this part all the way up the fork tube in case it got stuck. So I assume I rode it this way in the 90s. BUT the forks are not balanced, so when you rebound only one fork would top out and the springs are not equal pressure. Will it damage the fork over time? I found the manual but the parts are not listed anywhere. Thanks Francis

Well I am finally done round 1. The Montesa is back together and running. I tore it down to the frame, painted and rebuilt it. New rear shocks, tires, seat and 1 new lower fork. It took me 1.5 weeks to get the forks off and now I can rebuild the front end in 30 minutes. Fun and a lot of learning. I still need HELP! Front forks are rebuilt but I have parts missing. 1 fork was seized - it was missing the lower fork piston bushing. I had to get one machined and then honed down to fit. It works amazing now BUT this fork is 1.5" shorter than the other. The shock I did not rebuild it missing something in the top half of the fork that stops the piston. Explanation - Front Fork - Top Nut - main spring, piston - So top half of fork when I look down I see a square stopper that stops the fork piston. On the shock i rebuilt when you look in you see a stopper or spacer in the tube. I did not want to try to push this part all the way up the fork tube in case it got stuck. So I assume I rode it this way in the 90s. BUT the forks are not balanced, so when you rebound only one fork would top out and the springs are not equal pressure. Will it damage the fork over time? I found the manual but the parts are not listed anywhere. Thanks Francis

OK GUYS, JUST TAKEN THE ORIGINAL DUNLOP REAR TYRE OFF MY 2023 MONTESA 4RT. ( yes not had a lot of use as i also do pre 65 and have had an injury ) IVE REPLACED IT WITH A NEW DUNLOP GEOMAX TL01. IVE HEARD THAT THE SIDE WALLS ARE VERY STIFF AND HAVING JUST DROPPED IT OFF ITS STAND ONTO THE FLOOR IVE GOT TO AGREE. I KNOW THEY'RE STANDARD KIT ON THE NEW BETA RANGE. JUST WONDERING WHAT PRESSURES PEOPLE ARE USING , DOES THE WALL GET SOFTER OR IS THAT THE DESIGN OF THE TYRE. JUST CURIOUS, I RAN THE OTHER DUNLOP ON 4PSI. THANKS EVERYONE.

OK GUYS, JUST TAKEN THE ORIGINAL DUNLOP REAR TYRE OFF MY 2023 MONTESA 4RT. ( yes not had a lot of use as i also do pre 65 and have had an injury ) IVE REPLACED IT WITH A NEW DUNLOP GEOMAX TL01. IVE HEARD THAT THE SIDE WALLS ARE VERY STIFF AND HAVING JUST DROPPED IT OFF ITS STAND ONTO THE FLOOR IVE GOT TO AGREE. I KNOW THEY'RE STANDARD KIT ON THE NEW BETA RANGE. JUST WONDERING WHAT PRESSURES PEOPLE ARE USING , DOES THE WALL GET SOFTER OR IS THAT THE DESIGN OF THE TYRE. JUST CURIOUS, I RAN THE OTHER DUNLOP ON 4PSI. THANKS EVERYONE.

Can anybody tell how to stop my 4rt 260 clutch dragging