Heating Help: The Wall forum

Hello, I was wondering how people feel about the smart water shut offs has anyone installed a smart water shut off valve. Plus Smart Water Assistant & Shutoff (2nd Gen) Moen 900-006 Flo Smart Water Monitor and Shutoff in 1-Inch Diameter Thank you.

Greetings, I need to replace an IFC in one of my 15 year old 007s and was wondering if it’s worth replacing the whole circulator with the ECM version. The pump circulates water through the whole first floor and is probably the most used of any of my 007s. Any thoughts are appreciated. Brent

I have a wet loop seal/water seal right near the end of my steam main. The loop is leaking a bit and i think i should replace. Should i consider using a steam trap or just replace kind for kind?

I need a very small electric boiler. Small enough I could use an 1400watt water heater if it was rated for heating. I haven't used their products before. Are they any good? Thinking of using this guy. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Electro-Industries-EMB-R1-01-120-1-Electro-Mini-Boiler-R1-Staging-1-kW-1-Phase-Electric-Boiler-120V Backstory: I have a small (30sqft) bathroom I need about 800btus to heat. The apartment is heated with mini splits and there's currently no gas or boiler. They put tube in the floor, finished the bath then decided to switch from baseboard to heat pumps not thinking about about where to get hot water for the radiant. They're dead set on radiant and don't want to tear out the tile to go electric.

My apologies as this in not related to heating. I noticed a water leak at the first pressure gauge after the main main water shut off gate valve in my basement. The gauge is partially filled with water and seems to be leaking at the base around the threads. I’m worried that if this completely fails (I don’t know this gauge’s internal construction) water is going be gushing out. Added issue is that the electrical box sits very close to it. Is the an ASAP, call a plumber tonight on a Saturday issue, or could I possibly try to turn off the gate valve myself and replace the pressure gauge with a threaded plug (I’d have to go to Home Depot). Note: There is a ball valve located after the gate valve which I would shut prior to closing the gate valve to do the work Also, do I risk the gate valve leaking after I shut it off and open after a plug is installed? Thank you.

I was emptying about 4 gallons from a bucket twice a day. Yesterday the expansion tank and relief valves were replaced. Later in the afternoon I had the same leak. After releasing a fair amount of water into a bucket by moving the valve manually, the drip would stop for about 45 minutes or so then resume. The heating company came out again today with the diagnosis that the indirect water heater was causing high pressure and recommended a new indirect tank next to the system. I wonder if a standalone electric water would be a valid option? I know it would be less efficient, but if oil prices stay as they are now, I was thinking during the warm weather season I could just turn the furnace off? I asked about that a while back before this happened and heard due to the efficiency of the Buderus system that may not be the best option. I realize the during cold weather the indirect system would be more efficient when the furnace is running. Maybe the best choice overall would be the indirect system. The furnace is 24 years old. I don’t have the knowledge about these systems and respect those that do and appreciate any ideas.

What is the reason for the recent change on the Bosch Greenstar electrode kits ? The addition of the spring wrapping around one of the ingnition electrodes . Seems odd to me …..

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Need to get my flue pipe into the chimney. Its 3 inch PVC but getting a hole in the chimney is like trying to tunnel out of prison with a spoon. I gave up on the 4-inch carbide core bit. Using a hammer drill and lump hammer and chisel at the moment. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Might rent a chipping hammer but don't want to go over kill either. Any suggestions on good quality bit for a hammer drill?

Replacing everything about our hydronics system except the in-floor pipes ( and the two circs, plus AH). Currently a cast iron boiler. Before I start cutting things open, I bet I should clean and maybe refill with city water (it has mostly well water in it now, I would think). Plan is to valve off all zones but one (at a time) , then pump in/out of the unused manifold ports. I could have a 200gal tote full of city water ready to go, but how do I know what size pump is good enough but not so powerful that it could damage my poor old HePex in the slab ? Once "rinsed" , I could circulate a cleaner of some sort , using a bucket and pump. Any recommendations on type or brand of cleaner ? Finally, another 200gal tote to rinse the cleaner and crud out and then leave the pipes full of that city water. Once the old plumbing is out and all the new stuff is connected, I will have an Axiom fill tank to add stuff and a Caleffi dirtmag to catch any strays. Let me know if Im missing something please.

Background information: I previously posted asking for suggestions on how to split my monoflow-plumbed boiler into more zones here: https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/202493/splitting-existing-forced-hot-water-gas-boiler-into-more-zones I’m getting around to doing the work, and I’m trying to figure out what I should do for pumps. The big zone currently has a Bell and Gossett Series 100 pump. The plumbing is a ~35 foot run of 1-¼” copper (to the far end of the house) where it splits into two 1” runs, about 60’ long each going around the perimeter of the house back to the boiler. Each of these runs serves 5 convectors (3 on first floor and 2 on second floor) which are fed by ½” piping fishing from the monoflow tees which are at the basement ceiling height. The zone that was added to the big zone at some point (the room is an addition) is plumbed in ¾” with monoflow tees to two convectors. There is about 70’ of pipe with about 10 elbows in the zone. The existing basement zone has a Taco 110-338. This zone has ¾” piping and is series plumbed to two convectors in the basement. There is about 120 feet of piping in this zone, and about 12 elbows. Questions: Is the Grunfos Alpha 15-58F (link https://www.supplyhouse.com/Grundfos-92603115-ALPHA-15-58F-Smart-ECM-High-Efficiency-Circulator-Pump-with-Optimized-Setpoint-Control) a good choice for replacing the Taco 110-338, and for putting on the newly split zone? This pump is attractive to me because it can show head and flow, and t

anyone have any tricks to keep the gas fumes from getting into the garage? Back in the old days, my grandfather had shotgun shells for this purpose, but no more around. thanks for any tips Coincidentally and unrelated, the last couple posts I’ve submitted, the first one did not stick so I repeat the process and the second time it sticks