Noisy central heating forum

I’d check the flow and balancing first before changing the pipework. With three Type 22 radiators, reducing from 22mm to 15mm could restrict the flow. If possible, test the existing setup first and see whether the third radiator heats properly with the other two balanced.

Why do you say that? I offered it as a solution to your question, I do not know what you have or have not tried, you do not say, but if you want to wait for a double glazing person to reply be my guest. Just don't hold your breath.

Unnecessarily snotty response

Floor so brittle they've had to take the whole thing out. I am FUMING at the guy who put the dry sand cement in originally. We CANNOT get under the sole plates (which are sitting on unstable base but should hold okay) and behind the wall is insulated so we can't really get to the back of it to put a DPC into the wall properly. We do however need to put in a DPC before we pour concrete. My plan is to paint primer and maybe DPM on the loose edge of this sand cement, which can only be cut back as far as the sole/base plates flush with the walls (see photos). Then put in plastic DPC and concrete and essentially HOPE that we don't get rising damp. This is turning into a nightmare - if you have any product recommendations or methods of essentially reverse engineering a floor I'd be very grateful. Thank you. God knows why he didn't put in a proper DPC in the first place!

Hello all, first post! I have an old porch, however there is an problem as the brick work has begun to separate from wooden window frames. The gap is very slight and even at its maximum it is probably less than 1mm. So my first thought was expanding foam - however will the expansion of the foam cause even more pressure as it expands worsening the problem, and will it provide enough of a bond once set? If not what about one of those tubes of all in one sealant/filler products and then gunning it in. Does anyone have a brand they would recommend as there is so many I fell a bit lost as to what would be best? My final thought would be one of those tubes of repair concrete, but would that provide enough adhesion with a wooden window frame against brickwork? Cheers for any ideas Rob.

Can anyone advise how these seals are supposed to be fitted on the hinge side of a shower door? The 2 seals are pictured, the first being the underside seal, and the second is the vertical at the hinge side of the door, and both of these form a decent seal against the shower tray, and the tiles. Where they meet in the corner though, there is a constant trickle of water no matter how I've tried to make the 2 seals meet. I've tried with the bottom seal going all the way to the side of the door and the vertical trim coming down on top of it as in the picture, with both being cut at 90 degree angle. This has been the most successful, but it still leaks. I've tried with the bottom trim butting up to the side of the vertical trim and also 45 degree angle cuts. Thank you.

Why not call another double glazing company and ask them?

Double glazed bathroom window locking mechanism broken & it's stuck in locked position. Some 'play' at the bottom (it can be pushed a little), but top is completely locked into tight closed position. Called out window repairers (on Trust A Trader), they managed to get it open, replaced parts & all seemed OK..........only it wasn't! I had no idea it was no longer going to be 'like for like'. All my other windows have what I believe is known as Night Vent Position. It is either totally closed & locked, or it can be opened about 1 1/2cms & locked in that position. Allowing an element of air circulation in the bathroom to disperse steam & still safe when we're out. We like that it's still locked because there's a porch below, handy for a burglar to stand on! Realised later that the secondary position is removed. There is no 'latch' to the central section any more, it's a straight aluminium strip from top to bottom. So although the 'receiving' position for 1 1/2cm opening & locking, the ability to use it is gone. Fitter has told me that's all that is available nowadays, what we have isn't made any more! Can't add photo's as message says "file is too big". So from description above can anyone confirm that this was indeed 'all that could be done', or was it just the cheapest or least difficult option for them?

Hi kissidhu7, Starting from the bottom you may have to reduce the depth of the joists where the shower tray fits so this is level with the surrounding floor. Pick the right tray and you can use noggins between the joists and not need an under tray base board. I would not recommend notching the joists for your waste pipe - run this below the joists. Clean the masonry walls back to a stable surface and I suggest you use sticky foam to fix the boards in place. Because you have different materials walls/floor I suggest you use a sheet type DPM and take this up the walls. Can’t help you with advice on underfloor heating. Regards S

Hi centrepin13, These panels generally pull out from the bottom but check there are no screws into blocks behind the panel. If tiling has been done after the side has been fitted you may have to remove some tiles to free the panel. Regards S

Hello Am trying to remove the side panel from my bath I tried pulling from the panel top where it fits under the bath rim holding it in but am concerned it will crack Its difficult to pull out from the bottom right side parallel end where it meets the floor and end vertical tiling. I'll take pics and send tonight> TIA Centrepin13

Hi downthepub, From your description it sounds like you have a single pipe system. You could force the flow in the 22mm pipe as you describe but it may restrict the system flow. Try what you suggest but keep the existing pipes in place and use isolating valves to direct the flow. Regards S