cartridge alignment, worth a tweak ? forum

I had some free Claude fable credits to use so I thought it would be interesting to build a skill that incorporated the unibox capabilities. The nice thing is you can start with any specific parameters such as drivers, box size etc and feed it a few parts sources such as parts express, Madison’s etc and it will work through an optimized design comparing models for all the different options from sealed, ported, passive radiator etc. I did a few passes of automated QA but posting here to get some feedback and thought how to make this better.

I had some free Claude Fable credits to use so I thought it would be interesting to build a skill that incorporated the unibox capabilities. The nice thing is you can start with any specific parameters such as drivers, box size etc and feed it a few parts sources such as parts express, Madison’s etc and it will work through an optimized design comparing models for all the different options from sealed, ported, passive radiator etc. I did a few passes of automated QA but posting here to get some feedback and thought how to make this better.

I was unpacking some Wharfdale Reva speakers to use for testing out an electronic crossover for Steve, and got reminded of these, because a bin of each was under the Revas.... They date back to 2014... crap, more than 10 years old. I'm sure the reason they caught my eye back then was the 3" edge wound voice coil on a titanium former, dual shorting rings, claims for FEA and Klippel optimized designs, and pretty dang flat impedance curves. ​ ​ Now, I can imagine a number of interesting things to do with them, especially with some DA25TX tweeters, but folks on the forum couldn't buy them at this point- PE doesn't seem them anymore, I think they haven't for a few years. I'm thinking in terms of an MTM with either of these, working with a dual woofer combo, but which one? Feels like a lost opportunity... though who knows... Maybe these were just too high tech for PE's general product lines and customers.

The forum has been migrated once again to a new server that is now using ARM instead of x86. A migration was necessary to upgrade the operating system to a version that uses OpenSSl 3.5 or later. This allows for the site to use TLS version 1.3 with hybrid key exchange to take advantage of the latest ciphers to protect our online experience. There will be other transitions coming in the future for x509 certificates too. This migration allows us to be ready and not left behind in the dust. If you find any issues with the forum, please post here. Future notes: - I want to move the DNS zone from the current host to a new host. I'm not sure what kind of down that would mean for the forum, but hopefully only a few hours for DNS propogtation - The site should feel faster, we now have faster CPU's in use

This project is kind of a rush since I’m trying to get it done by IowaDIY in the middle of October. I’m waist deep in parts and it’s a struggle to move forward on everything but I spent some significant time working this out. On a phone right now so details are slim, but here goes. This will hopefully be a largish bookshelf that pushes my 3D printers to their capacity. Tweeter: Peerless DA25TX Midrange: TBD - FaitalPRO 5FE125, Anarchy 558, MAC-05, and Satori MW13TX are all contenders. Not sure I’ll have time or filament to make test baffles for all, but I’m definitely going to test the FaitalPRO and the Satori. Woofer (rear firing, separate chamber): Anarchy 708 with a Dayton Audio RSS210-PR in a downfiring situation. Lots of questions, very little time to get things done. CAD work and progress photos below. Essentially I’m making two trapezoidal enclosures. One shallow enclosure around 4-5 liters for the tweeter and mid. One ~10 liter enclosure for the woofer, PR, and hopefully the crossover.

https://discourse.midwestaudio.club/...t-together/723 No CSS event this year, so Ken has taken the reigns and is hosting in Grand Rapids. Come join us!

I've been running an SVS SB-1000 for a while and I've finally hit the end of what it can do. It's a good little sub and I have no complaints about it for what it is — sealed 12" in about a cubic foot, 300 W, published at 24-260 Hz ±3 dB. But I keep noticing the bottom octave isn't there, and no amount of EQ fixes a box that small. So rather than buy something bigger I'm building one. Going with a sonosub because I want the volume without the footprint, and because a 15.5" ID form tube is the cheapest 5 cubic feet you can buy. Everything is on hand now, so here's the design before I start cutting, partly to write it down and partly because if I've got something wrong I'd rather hear it from you lot than discover it after the glue sets. The parts Dayton Audio SS12-22, 12" DVC, ±23 mm Xmax, Sd 528 cm², Fs 27 Hz, Qts 0.35, Vas 49.4 L 15.5" ID form tube, 48" long, staying uncut ICEpower 1200AS1, mounted internally DSP, connectors Five 24×48 3/4" MDF hobby panels 4" Schedule 40 PVC port with flares on both ends 1 mm vinyl wrap, 6" metal legs, three of them in a tripod The design net volume 122.9 L / 4.34 cu ft tuning 15.0 Hz port 4" ID, 30.99" assembled, flared both ends alpha (Vas/Vb) 0.402 h (Fb/Fs) 0.556 cavity 45.75" between caps overall height 55.4" including legs estimated mass 84 lb, CoG 21.1" off the floor That's an extended-bass-shelf alignment rather than a maximally flat one, which the tube volume more or less chose for me. Modelled half space at 1 m it comes out flat wi

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-R-...3445/330252223

I've been working on a loudspeaker design tool for my own use for a while now. It covers enclosures, crossovers, diffraction, measurement import, and so on. I mostly started it because I was tired of moving numbers between three different programs and a spreadsheet just to answer one question. Most of my time has gone into getting the physics right rather than polishing the interface. I've been checking the results against published anechoic measurements, instead of only comparing them with other simulators. Two programs agreeing doesn't necessarily mean either one agrees with the real speaker, and testing that has caught me out more than once. I'm curious about the parts of your own workflow that existing software doesn't handle well. What do you still calculate by hand or keep a spreadsheet for — not because you enjoy doing it that way, but because the software doesn't give you a better option? Are there any results you routinely double-check because you don't completely trust them? What did you have to learn from forum threads rather than from the program itself? And is there any variation or "what if?" idea you regularly skip because setting it up would take more effort than it's worth? I'm not looking to pitch anything or collect a generic feature wishlist. I'm more interested in the awkward parts of the process that people have simply learned to work around. If this turns up anything useful, I'll come back and share what I learned — and what I ended up doing about it.

Is there any inherent reason a pair of 6.5–7" midwoofers in a conventional isobaric arrangement can't be run cleanly to around 2 kHz? Assume both drivers individually work well to 2 kHz. I am specifically wondering whether the isobaric arrangement itself — trapped air between the drivers, coupling, spacing, cavity resonances, etc. — creates problems as frequency rises, and what determines the practical upper limit. It has obviously been done. The Totem Mani-2 reportedly ran its iso pair to around 3 kHz, and I just found the Dellichord FR6 , a current 6.5" two-way using two identical SB Acoustics midwoofers isobarically, a passive radiator, and a 1.7 kHz crossover . I am going to build a test box and compare a single driver directly against the iso pair, but I would be interested in any measurements, experience or technical explanation of what happens to an isobaric pair as frequency increases. Please keep this to the question of using an isobaric pair into the midrange. I understand the usual iso tradeoffs and alternatives. “Use a different driver,” “use DSP,” “there's no reason to use isobaric anymore,” etc. may all be perfectly reasonable advice, but aren't the question I'm trying to answer. ​ ​ https://www.soundstageaustralia.com/...s-fr6-speakers

I'm cobbling together a power supply to test an HP Desktop All-In-One. I picked up a tip (7.4 mm x 5 mm with a wire center probe) I don't have the original PS, so can anyone tell me which contacts are supposed to be +DCV and which is -DCV? The PS I'm using doesn't have a third lead, so it will have to function without the monitoring lead. I'm assuming (!?) the inner contact surface is positive, but computer manufacturers just love proprietary nonsense, soooo.......