v11lemans.com

Well...I had an epiphany a few days ago and figured out how to remove the wiring from the standard bucket after having given up and placing an order with AF1 for a replacement just in case I couldn't fix it (back order of 6-8 weeks). The other day I successfully managed to remove the full wiring harness from the stock headlamp bucket (2 piece wiring harness). With that now successfully removed (stock bucket was irreparably cracked too I found out at the mounting hole for the headlamp ring), I could now use the LED PERF purchased headlamp bucket and securely mount a new Sylvania headlamp from Autozone for $30 bucks (simple low and high beam) (saving the LED PERF headlight for another experiment as it has extra wires needed to clip to the existing blinker wires) and was able to get it all mounted. A few small modifications using this new headlamp bucket - first, a 1.5 inch double lipped rubber grommet that seals the wiring into the new headlamp bucket, and secondly slightly longer (M8X40 mm) bolts than stock to mount the new bucket back in place on the bike. Works perfectly so far. Will now play around with the LED replacement with the second bucket...I think I can now make it work having solved the wiring issue. Onwards to Spine Raid next week!

Poor unlucky old me had 2 midweek vacation trips back to back... One camping with a friend in the Ardennes, and then one with family in the Veluwe. Great time! Though the bike is in need of some attention now it seems. I blew through several ignition fuses in the Ardennes and my fuel light is broken. It was amazing to actually get the bike out in some great twisties though, we did a daytrip to Luxembourg and it was a treat as always.

Mine are Thexton , Lisle and SnapOn. They are similar to the ones in your picture. They work great. You grip the base of the relay and pull straight up. No chance of pulling the cover off or damaging anything. I use a Lisle 60630 tool ( I would buy the whole kit to cover everything) to plug into where the relays goes and install the relay on top of it. It has 5 pins that easily access the terminals so you won't damage anything in the fuse block .

Something like this ==>

What do those look like?

We had one helluva time fixing his bike.

Yes, makes perfect sense. All it takes is a simple documentation along the lines of "Test #, Relay #x at position x", and you can follow the fault.

I have some relay pliers I use to remove the relays

I had Sierra Tango # his relays when we were getting educated on his no-start condition. This was when we were swapping relays around early on and I wanted to know where the relays were and are at all times.

I've got a silver Sharpie (felt tip pen) in the Garage the still more or less works. I've already put numbers on them with that. That will, at least, tell me where they started out. @docc I see what you are getting at. Those sockets are surely not made to be having the relays pulled in and out regularly. I'm aware through work of the term "Steckzyklen", translates as "plugging cycles". Something like a relay socket is not likely to be made for a high number of those. On a side note, the lowest number I have come across is for RJ45 connectors, the ones used for network cables. I went to a workshop some time ago dealing with audio networks. The colleague from Yamaha Professional Audio had taken the time to research how many plugging cycles an RJ45 plug is built for. The answer was 2. They hold up to rather a lot more than that, but one should have that in the back of the mind. If there is a problem with a network, the very first thing to do is try a new cable.

The least stressed relay is #3/ the middle. It is called the “Sidestand” Relay, but is activated by the Neutral Switch. So, it is only pulled in when the bike is switched on and in neutral. I am not a fan of “Musical Relays” for several reasons. I tried labeling my relays, but soon found that the label was obsolete as soon as I moved it. At that point, I put my relay function labels on the lip of the tail cowl next to the relay stack and simply wrote installation dates on the relays, themselves. We have also learned that the female connectors inside the relay bases are prone to fatigue and failure. At that point, I stopped pulling relays out unless necessary. And, even then, I try to pull them straight up and out without any rocking, twisting, or winding motions.

Get a tablet of Brady wire markers and label them w/numbers or letters to know their location and identification. This will help when you play musical relays.