Forum Comancheclub

I’m looking for a picture of a power steering pump pulley from a 2.5 (serpentine) Anyone have some pics?

Mine finally fell off today. The glue had to be pretty good stuff given the difficulty of sliding the center window back and forth and the fact it's been attached for 36 years. My first guess is the stuff you use to attach a rear view mirror, but I don't know if that stuff would survive pushing and pulling on it every day. I have the 3 window, sliding center configuration. I don't really know what is making it difficult to slide, I don't really see anything in there to generate the resistance, but the resistance is there none the less. I guess I can try squishing in a little bit of lithium grease in the bottom track, not sure that's the best approach for the top but maybe if I grease up the bottom a little the resistance should at least be less.

Post up pics of your best friend(s) in your Comanche.

Like the title says, whenever I decelerate, whether under load or coasting, I hear a popping sound coming from, I think, my exhaust. Let me say, this has been happening the whole time I've owned this Jeep and i though it had something to do with compression because it happens when I downshift and use the engine to break/slow the vehicle. BUT the other day, I was feeling to lazy to use my hand to shift down, so I pushed in the clutch and let off the gas and coasted around a corner, sure enough the popping began. I have two working theories; 1. The PO put in new injectors (4 holes)I wonder if the injectors are dumping to much gas into the engine at the lower speeds to burn it off, hence popping/backfiring in my exhaust? 2. The CPS isn't signaling the system about the reduction in speed so the ignition is dumping too much fuel. Do any of you have other ideas? Has this happened to you? I've done all the grounding, troubleshooting steps in Cruisers guide, and otherwise the engine runs like a top, I'd just like to iron out this wrinkle, thanks in advance!

I see alot of door lock sets online for around $20. Some need filing to fit and some are sloppy in operation. I want to do this one time. Any links? Gaskets would be a plus! Not sure if new dealer stock is available or if there's a part number for such. Thanks guys!

Anyone made or make a tunnel vinyl? I don’t want to vinyl or carpet the floor as it gets soaked in here often, but I want the tunnel covered in vinyl for ease of cleaning, looks and heat/noise. Anyone know of anything?

Are there any Suzuki samurai folks here?? I've got a newly aquired samurai body, an extra jeep drivetrain/axles and questions...

Figured I’d start a thread for this one as well. This is my 89, short bed that lived in FL almost its whole life. Currently stripped down for a thorough cleaning & some new goodies. Will post progress along the way

I have a 1989 Jeep Comanche that I bought about a year ago and it has not ran right since. It’s an 89 with a 96 motor adapted to the renix system. Tons of new parts from previous owner and yes he swapped everything over properly. My dad Uncle brother and I have gone through everything. It has been to 2 shops and nobody can figure it out. The truck runs super rich and runs rough. Would love to hear any ideas or thoughts? Would also like insight on converting to carbureted and how to go about that. Carbureted is a last resort of course but after a year, I’m ready to drive it.

I picked up this 1990 Comanche Pioneer a few weeks ago. it's a 4x4, 4.0, 5 speed manual shortbed model that's apparently been sitting for 20 years. The guy I bought it off replaced the whole fuel system from tank to injectors, replaced the clutch and got it running before giving up, so now it's my problem. I didn't need a third project car, but here we go. It's pretty clean for a 36 year old car, very straight and minimal rust. It has one small hole in the floor and a couple of pinholes in the roof, but those can be fixed pretty easily, then the whole thing is rust-free. I plan to paint or undercoat it before too long to protect it, but for now I'm just focusing on getting it back on the road and able to pass inspection. The biggest issue is the transmission needs replacing, and the clutch needs bleeding properly. 1st gear is essentially unusable, and it grinds going into the others. Rebuilding it would be nice, but even if I do it myself it'd be very expensive. I have a line on a replacement, but I’m just waiting to hear back about it. Besides that, the only other problems are mostly just age related. The engine obviously needs servicing and going through to make sure it's running right, but it does run, so it's a pretty low priority at the moment. It needs every suspension bushing replacing, new shocks, new U-joints, new oil in the diffs and transfer case etc. I plan to maybe rebuild the axles at some point down the line. Eventually, the goal is to clean it up a bit and mak

I'm working on getting my 1990 4.0 Comanche back on the road, it's sat for 20 years and many things aren't working. The entire gauge cluster was dead, so I recently took it out, cleaned all the contacts and checked them all for continuity. The gauges mostly work now, except my tach is reading below 0 when the engine is running. If I give it some gas, the needle does go up, but the resting position while it's running is this: I have an original service manual with electrical diagrams, but it doesn't make it obvious where the wiring for the tach goes, or what to do if it's out of calibration. I've already gone through and cleaned as many grounds as I could find, all the connections in the IP seem to be good now. What would cause this?

Looking for input here. Swapping a 1990 AX15 onto the 3.4 in my truck. Done quite a bit of reading on people that have done the AX5-AX15 swap in 2.5s, but very little info about putting it on the 60° v6s. I kind of assumed that most of the advice would cross over, and it has, but I shouldn't have assumed anything given there's no actual documentation on this swap. The issue I'm having is that the input shaft of the AX15 is not engaging the splines on the clutch and I'm not sure how to fix it. From the surface of the back of the engine, the clutch splines stick out about 38mm. From the face of the bellhousing, the input shaft splines are 35mm inset. When everything is bolted in place I can freely rotate the output shaft and feel the input shaft spin with the trans in 4th. Not entirely sure what to do from here to try and get those spline to meet. I can't flip the clutch disc because the springs interfere with the flywheel bolts. Anyone have any thoughts?