Forum Problème d'alignement vertical des couches

I am trying to add text to the given ball template. When I press the "use surface" option to place the text, the slicer crashes. All the times ... Seems to be a major problem reg Klaus

After upgrading my core one to indx, I've had the feeling that bed adhesion is worse than before. This is difficult to measure objectively because I can't very well run a test print on both setups… I also noticed that the loadcell calibration often complains of noise, and thought that maybe the two things are related (noisy loadcell → noisy Z probes → imprecise bed levelling → bad adhesion) I saw that it's possible to run the mesh bed levelling and get back the actual measurements, so I thought: if I run the same process twice, changing nothing, and I get different values, I'll know that something is wrong. I found https://github.com/wejn/prusa-mbl/ that makes that process a bit easier than typing gcode in a serial terminal, and ran the mbl-60c script twice in a row, only taking out the bed to clean it in between. And… the measurements are within 0.05mm of each other, at all points. I guess that's well within tolerance, and I should stop worrying? Any opinion?

It's that time of the month again, Prusa Community Live, the October 2026 edition. We will break down what going on, whats new, and some other things. Today, October 1st, 7pm CET / 1pm EST / 10am PST https://youtube.com/live/NzbzGloOQMc

My MMU was up and running. However while doing some maintence and repair, it came unplugged while printer was powered on. Now there is no life coming from the MMU board at all. Spoke to prusa support and after some testing (holding buttons for factory reset, moving to another printer) they said sounds like it's a bad board. My question is does anyone have any ideas on what could be the issue? I can do the surface soldering to replace components. But I more feel like this is some sort of firmware or programming issue. The board is not seen by a computer when plugged in. So I'm not able to flash anything using prusa slicer. In the past I've had to force push firmware using an Arduino. Is this something that anyone has done? This is the second time something like this has happened to me. First time was totally my fault as I was messing around with it. Shame on me. But if something as simple as a power cut totally bricks the MMU board that sounds like a big oversight from prusa. I'm very unimpressed if I'm expected to buy a new $100 control board Everytime power cuts off from the control board.

All of a sudden my INDX 4T is in a factory reset loop. It was on the beta firmware, and printed just fine a few days ago. Powered it up yesterday and it loops from bootloader to factory reset, and so forth. I did flash the latest release firmware via USB, which went fine, but right on boot it again loops into the factory reset screen. Any ideas?

Hallo zusammen, ich habe seit ein paar ein Problem mit meinen Drucken. Nachdem der neue Drucker monatelang anstandslos gedruckt hat, habe ich ein bei einem hohen Modell (ca 35 cm) das Problem gehabt, dass der Drucker plötzlich die letzten 4-5 cm nicht mehr druckte (Filament wurde nicht mehr nachgeschoben - Druckkopf lief trotzdem weiter) Für mich war der Fall klar - neue Düse (0.4 - wie bisher). Da ich diese bestellen musste und die Wartezeit überbrücken wollte, habe ich kurzerhand die zwei Drückköpfe gegeneinander ausgetascht - zunächst mit Erfolg. Beim zweiten Druck (diesmal nur ca. 1,5 cm hoch) fehlte wieder 0,5 cm in der Höhe. Also: Neue Düse. Gleiches Spiel wieder. Beim Drck am Drucker geblieben. Nach kürzester Zeit fangen die Zahnräder beim Filament fördern an zu knacken und es wird kein Filament mehr gefördert (schon nach wenigen mm Druckhöhe). nochmal neue Düse - gleicher Fehler. Was läuft hier schief...?! Danke für Eure Hilfe, Heiko

I am trying to print a simple dog name tag using two different filament colours. I have been getting oozing on this filament and having little strings of filament get deposited on the print after oozing out in the time that the print head takes to get back to the object after purging on colour change. To try to deal with that I have dropped my nozzle temp down to 200 degrees in the slicer - but when the first filament change triggers the nozzle goes back up to 215 and finishes the print at that temp. I've checked the gcode and I can't see any M104 commands to change from 200 to 215, I also can't see any S215 entries. I have tried sending the print as bgcode, gcode, sending it directly via Prusa Connect and also sending it by uploading the print to Prusa Connect and finally by copying the gcode straight onto the USB stick. Gcode is here as I can't work out how to attach a file to this forum: https://filebin.net/jcu827wqu929cit9 Initial Layer Requesting Filament Change Printing Second Layer at 215 Filament Settings Printer Firmware Slicer Version

I print a lot of 3d relief maps and always struggle with stringing on the low volume tools. I run 0.6 nozzles on the main tool which prints the bulk of the terrain and 0.25 nozzles on the other 5 tools. I have tweaked setting and dried the shit out of my filament, but still have more stringing then I would like, especially on tools that are used the least. For example the latest map section I printed was around 800g total / 40 hrs, but tool #1 is only printing 30g of filament, and most of that is going to the tower. I don't have anyway to measure moisture, but if I pull out the filament midway through a print the last 2-3 inches are brittle like wet filament. It snaps when bent while everywhere else the filament bends and is actually hard to get apart. Has anyone else run into this? Is the some mechanism where there is off-gassing coming from the hotend up the filament tube, or is the long heat exposure breaking it down?

Context: Recently, I had to stop a print because of a severe thunderstorm. I had to forcibly turn off the printer and manually cool down the extruder. Once the storm had passed, I was able to resume the print without any problems. The idea: Could there be an option in the menu called something like “Emergency Shutdown” or “Force Majeure Shutdown” ? The idea would be to give the user, within a period of up to 5 minutes, the ability to safely stop the print, allow the printer to cool down, check and save all the necessary information, and then let the user turn the printer off. When the printer is turned back on, it could ask the user the same kind of questions it already asks when resuming a print, such as whether everything is OK and whether the printed parts are still in place. It could then gradually heat up or cool down the chamber, much more slowly than during normal operation, purge the nozzle, and continue the print. I think this could save a lot of prints that would otherwise be lost. It could even become useful as a regular feature for situations where the user needs to turn the printer off for some reason and continue the print later. For additional security, this feature could also save the relevant recovery information to the cloud, so that the print could be recovered even if something happens to the printer's local data. I realize that there are probably many technical challenges involved, but after this experience, I thought this could be a very useful feature t

Hello, I am using an E3D Revo 0.4mm high flow nozzle with a 60W Heater Core. I decided to switch back from Klipper to Prusa firmware. I encountered a "Thermal Anomaly" error. Then I went to install E3D_REVO_FW_MK3_MK3S_MK3S+_FW_3.14.1.zip from Releases · prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware , Next flashed this to the printer: MK3S_MK3S+_E3DREVO_HF_60W_FW_3.14.1_MULTILANG.hex After that, I performed a Thermal Model calibration which failed to proceed and beeped. I hit the Reset button and tried the PID Calibration. Also failed with a beep. Tried to Load Filament, also failed after the temperature was increased. Then I went back to performa a PID Calibration. This time succeed. However, when I tried to redo the Thermal Model calibration again, it reached 130c and beeped with a Print aborted. Tried to Load Filament, also failed with this error. Could you please let me know how to fix these issues? P.S. I performed the following procedure when I installed Klipper. GitHub - PrusaOwners/mk3-32u2-firmware: Updated Atmega 32u2 Firmware for the Einsy Rambo · GitHub

Hi! I spent way to much time designing angled spool holder caps for a better view when your are in front of the printers… 68 models: Numbers and materials for left and right side, compatible with printed and injected spool holders… For now INDX pictures are only rendering, as I didn't mount the spool holders on mine... But I will, to take better pictures. I hope it will be useful for some of you regarding the time I spent You can get it here

Whenever I try to print and insert a pause, the printhead temperature drops and never comes back up to temp so the print will fail. Any ideas on how to prevent this from happening? I've inserted a pause to change filament but I don't want to have to eject the filament just to reinsert the same color. I'd like to have it pause (I'm inserting NFC tags) and then just have the printer resume using the same color.