Forum Tiara Yacht Owners Forum

Hello Everyone, Filling up my boat with gas is starting to take longer and longer, taking less than 1/2 gallon at a time before I can see the fuel level rise up and then wait for it to go down. Im assuming I have an issue with my fuel vents .. those two bolts on exterior of boat? What else could it be? Are these difficult to replace/clean? Also is there a hack or workaround to fill the boat up with gas to get me through the weekend until I can order parts and wrestle with this problem? Thank you very much! Max fuel-vents.jpg 1 Downloads - FileSize: 59.47 KB

IMG_3442.jpeg 0 Downloads - FileSize: 136.5 KB Can anyone please tell me what this switch is for? It is located on the bulkhead behind the seat cushion and under the power panel inside the boat. Someone said it had something to do with my Jabsco electric toilet conversion but not sure that is correct. Thank you!

IMG_3442.jpeg 3 Downloads - FileSize: 136.5 KB Can anyone please tell me what this switch is for? It is located on the bulkhead behind the seat cushion and under the power panel inside the boat. Someone said it had something to do with my Jabsco electric toilet conversion but not sure that is correct. Thank you!

IMG_3442.jpeg 8 Downloads - FileSize: 136.5 KB Can anyone please tell me what this switch is for? It is located on the bulkhead behind the seat cushion and under the power panel inside the boat. Someone said it had something to do with my Jabsco electric toilet conversion but not sure that is correct. Thank you!

Leak 4203.JPG 0 Downloads - FileSize: 74.1 KB [attachment=1633][attachment=1633]I been trying to locate the source of a small leak, since I like to have a clean dry bilge. Finally I was able to trace the leak back to the screws holding the exhaust bezel on the outside of the hull at the waterline. Depending on how the boat is loaded fuel etc, changed the severity of the leak. I suspect the screws were bedded with caulk from the factory and it aged over time. Hopefully this will save someone else some time.

Leak 4203.JPG 1 Downloads - FileSize: 74.1 KB [attachment=1633][attachment=1633]I been trying to locate the source of a small leak, since I like to have a clean dry bilge. Finally I was able to trace the leak back to the screws holding the exhaust bezel on the outside of the hull at the waterline. Depending on how the boat is loaded fuel etc, changed the severity of the leak. I suspect the screws were bedded with caulk from the factory and it aged over time. Hopefully this will save someone else some time.

Leak 4203.JPG 1 Downloads - FileSize: 74.1 KB [attachment=1633][attachment=1633]I been trying to locate the source of a small leak, since I like to have a clean dry bilge. Finally I was able to trace the leak back to the screws holding the exhaust bezel on the outside of the hull at the waterline. Depending on how the boat is loaded fuel etc, changed the severity of the leak. I suspect the screws were bedded with caulk from the factory and it aged over time. Hopefully this will save someone else some time.

Where can I get a replacement latch for the sliding vinyl shade on the overhead hatch in the hard top on my 2004 3200 Open? I believe the product name is Oceanic.

Where can I get a replacement latch for the sliding vinyl shade on the overhead hatch in the hard top on my 2004 3200 Open? I believe the product name is Oceanic.

My 95' 3500 Express did not have a generator but the electric panel is pre-wired for one. Instead of spending who knows how much for a diesel generator install I opted for a 300 amp hour 12v lithium-iron battery bank and a 3000 watt inverter. It does everything I need it to do. I stress tested the system this summer on a 90* day by first cooling down the cabin while on shore power, then going to anchor out to swim all day. I had my V berth AC running at 75* while at anchor, two refrigerators, water pumps, toilet, and the radio going while on the hook. I had 6 hours of capacity running with those loads (which you can monitor in real time with the battery app). My set up is three 100ah WattCycle trolling batteries with Bluetooth, a Giandel 3000w pure sine inverter, an 18 amp 12v DC-DC converter (it goes between my alternator and the LFP battery bank), and the various cables, switches, and buss bars. I think I'm about $1100 all in on materials (I did the work myself and had some wiring on hand). I removed the house Group 31 flooded batteries and reinstalled the LFPs in that portside space. I left one flooded battery as a charging battery as follows: wire the alternator to the flooded battery, then wire the flooded to a Victron 18amp 12v DC-DC converter, which then is wired to the LFP bank. You do not need an isolated converter because the boat has a common ground. I went with 18 amps firstly because I didn't want to tax the alternator, though I could have easily gone to 30 or mo

My 95' 3500 Express did not have a generator but the electric panel is pre-wired for one. Instead of spending who knows how much for a diesel generator install I opted for a 300 amp hour 12v lithium-iron battery bank and a 3000 watt inverter. It does everything I need it to do. I stress tested the system this summer on a 90* day by first cooling down the cabin while on shore power, then going to anchor out to swim all day. I had my V berth AC running at 75* while at anchor, two refrigerators, water pumps, toilet, and the radio going while on the hook. I had 6 hours of capacity running with those loads (which you can monitor in real time with the battery app). My set up is three 100ah WattCycle trolling batteries with Bluetooth, a Giandel 3000w pure sine inverter, an 18 amp 12v DC-DC converter (it goes between my alternator and the LFP battery bank), and the various cables, switches, and buss bars. I think I'm about $1100 all in on materials (I did the work myself and had some wiring on hand). I removed the house Group 31 flooded batteries and reinstalled the LFPs in that portside space. I left one flooded battery as a charging battery as follows: wire the alternator to the flooded battery, then wire the flooded to a Victron 18amp 12v DC-DC converter, which then is wired to the LFP bank. You do not need an isolated converter because the boat has a common ground. I went with 18 amps firstly because I didn't want to tax the alternator, though I could have easily gone to 30 or mo

My 95' 3500 Express did not have a generator but the electric panel is pre-wired for one. Instead of spending who knows how much for a diesel generator install I opted for a 300 amp hour 12v lithium-iron battery bank and a 3000 watt inverter. It does everything I need it to do. I stress tested the system this summer on a 90* day by first cooling down the cabin while on shore power, then going to anchor out to swim all day. I had my V berth AC running at 75* while at anchor, two refrigerators, water pumps, toilet, and the radio going while on the hook. I had 6 hours of capacity running with those loads (which you can monitor in real time with the battery app). My set up is three 100ah WattCycle trolling batteries with Bluetooth, a Giandel 3000w pure sine inverter, an 18 amp 12v DC-DC converter (it goes between my alternator and the LFP battery bank), and the various cables, switches, and buss bars. I think I'm about $1100 all in on materials (I did the work myself and had some wiring on hand). I removed the house Group 31 flooded batteries and reinstalled the LFPs in that portside space. I left one flooded battery as a charging battery as follows: wire the alternator to the flooded battery, then wire the flooded to a Victron 18amp 12v DC-DC converter, which then is wired to the LFP bank. You do not need an isolated converter because the boat has a common ground. I went with 18 amps firstly because I didn't want to tax the alternator, though I could have easily gone to 30 or mo