Soundman2020 forum

also, MDF is nice and dense as well when it comes to adding mass. defintitely add the insulation into the air space.

I would suggest not using homasote here. That's great for making hangers, but isn't very dense, so not much mass... not a great material for isolation. Just go with two layers of drywall (sheetrock). The insulation in the cavity is a critical part of isolation. It does several valuable things: damps various types of resonance that go in on there, changes the way the trapped air deals with sound waves, decreases the speed of sound, makes the cavity seem bigger, from the point of view of sound waves, and a few other things. Leaving that out can cost you a large chunk of isolation. What you are creating is technically known as an MSM system (Mass-Spring-Mass), where the outer glass is one Mass, the inner leaf you are creating with the drywall is the other mass, and the cavity is the spring. It's a tuned system. It works something like the suspension on your car. Leaving out the insulation is equivalent to taking out the shock absorbers on your car... that would give you a terrible, very bumpy ride! Ditto with the insulation in your cavity. You might find this interesting, on how MSM works, so you can fully understand these recommendations, and build your isolation better: What is MSM? How does it work? - Stuart -

Thanks Stuart. seal everything around that window with abundant caulk... all gaps, cracks, joints.. everything Yep, did that. depending on how bad the problem is It's not bad, but there is some room for improvement. facing the room, I imagine Yes. studs in the gap to get a nailing surface all around the perimeter, then nail a layer of homasote to that, followed by also nailing a layer of drywall (sheetrock) on top of the homasote. Is that the idea? Yep. don't forget to first fill the cavity with suitable insulation of suitable density, as that will greatly increase the isolation of the system That's interesting. I thought the air gap with nothing there (but air!) would be the way to go. I guess that's wrong? Sound waves don't care how much you pay for your mass Bastards! Green glue - was considering that, but thought MLV might be better. This is why I ask! So, GG inbetween the H. and SR. layers is better? But it isn't cheap I am only doing two windows, 32 x 46, that's 21 sq ft. Based on what I see, two tubes covers 32 sq ft, which is more then enough here. That's $56 - you are right, that ain't cheap, but it's relativeley nothign. Thanks!

I maybe didn't fully get what you are proposing, but a couple of key things in closing off that window: First, seal everything around that window with abundant caulk... all gaps, cracks, joints.. everything. If you can replace the glass with something thicker, that also might be worthwhile, depending on how bad the problem is. if it is really bad, consider replacing the glass with a thick pane of acoustic laminated glass. On the other hand if the problem isn't too bad, and you just need a few extra dB of isolation, the just sealing it should be enough. Gor the second leaf you propose (facing the room, I imagine), it I understand you correctly you plan to put some studs in the gap to get a nailing surface all around the perimeter, then nail a layer of homasote to that, followed by also nailing a layer of drywall (sheetrock) on top of the homasote. Is that the idea? If so, don't forget to first fill the cavity with suitable insulation of suitable density, as that will greatly increase the isolation of the system. In this case, mass is your friend, so two layers of drywall would be better, and get the thickest stuff you can find. 2 layers of 19mm would be great. Here too, seal up the edges of each layer right as you put it on. MLV is mass, yes, but it is very, very expensive mass. Sound waves don't care how much you pay for your mass: they only react to the mass itself. So get the cheapest, most dense mass you can find. Usually that is sheetrock. Yes MLV is also flexible, and th

I am thinking of closing off the windows in my studio - don't need them, and I can hopefully get rid of some road noise, such as trucks and motorcycles. I am thinking of a layer of Homasote, and a layer of sheetrock. Since there is some depth to the frame, I was going to add two studs, and nail the Homasote/sheetrock combo to the studs, and then caulk the perimeter. This would create an air gap, which I assume would work well. Should I put a layer of MLV in between the Homasote and sheetrock? Thanks in advance.

I am thinking of closing off the windows in my studio - don't need them, and I can hopefully get rid of some road noise, such as trucks and motorcycles. I am thinking of a layer of Homasote, and a layer of sheetrock. Since there is some depth to the frame, I was going to add two studs, and nail the Homasote/sheetrock combo to the studs, and then caulk the perimeter. This would create an air gap, which I assume would work well. Should I put a layer of MLV in between the Homasote and sheetrock? Thanks in advance.

really looking good! one note - wifi lights - check the manfacturer for their security settings - there are a lot of people getting their home networks hacked by people exploiting the low default security settings on their "smart" lights (as well as other "smart" products).

(...continuation of the previous post) The reason there are 4 chains (instead of 3) on the front side of the first cloud is essentially aesthetic, because there is no slat in the middle of the cloud. We created the second cloud following the same steps and here is the result: Then my friend connected the power for the cloud lights and also installed a power outlet on top to plug in the LED strip. TRACKS Next, we installed the three 12-foot tracks on the ceiling according to the rough plan I had made. Then my friend did the electrical wiring. So there are two PVC pipes coming out of the soffit, as planned. I then placed the spotlights on the tracks. The soffit and track lights are controlled by two dimmers, while the cloud lights have an on/off switch that also powers the LED strip. When the switch is on, I can control the color of the recessed lights and the LED strip with my phone. BASS TRAPS I dug out the OSB frames I built several months ago to cover the bass traps above the storage units and added the fabric. Ultimately, I decided to use black fabric for all the bass traps and other acoustic panels, instead of the blue from the original design. LED STRIP I need 32 feet of LED strip. When I bought the box at Costco last November, I knew the strip was too long, but I thought I could cut it into several sections and join them at the corners with 90-degree adapters to flatten the corners. But when I opened the box, I discovered the strip was in two sections of about 25 feet e

Hello, Here is an update on the work done since my last post. We first completed the construction and installation of the 2 clouds. CLOUDS We started by drilling holes in the OSB pieces for the recessed fittings. I have a 6-inch hole saw, but it was impossible to use it for drilling the holes because OSB is a very hard material, and as soon as the blade bit into the wood, it was impossible to hold the drill and risked injury. The hole saw was only used to trace a circle on the OSB, and then we cut it out with the oscillating saw. I drilled 12 holes, each ½ inch in diameter, to allow sound to pass through. I didn't want to make too many so as not to weaken the OSB, but I think I could have made more and used a 1-inch drill bit. Then we stapled the fabric and put the lights in the holes. (It looks like the fabric isn't opaque enough, but that's because there's a lot of light in the room.) Finally, my friend did the wiring and electrical connections for the 2 lights. Here is the hardware we used to hang the clouds. We first removed the screws from the ceiling (those corresponding to the first cloud) and replaced them with eye bolts. But before screwing in the eye bolts, we used a drill bit (with a smaller diameter than the eye bolt) to completely drill through the slat to avoid splitting it when screwing in the eye bolts. We then screwed the eye bolts onto the cloud, onto the pieces of 2x4 that we had added for this purpose. We then used four ratchet straps to suspend the cloud

without the REW file or more views of other diagnostics, it would appear there is a lot of LF and low mid energy being retained as well as several modes in those ranges which are also not tempered.

Hi everyone Does this waterfall look ok? Even after watching several vids, like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rmd5HgODQDg I am having an issue understanding how to properly read what I see. I guess, because mine doesn't look like what I see in the vids. Thank you.