Problème d'alignement vertical des couches forum

Hello, I own a MK3S (Bear mod) and bought the upgrade kits to MK4 and the upgrade kit from MK4(S) to Core One. What is the best way to upgrade? I also own a working XL. I think disassembling the MK3S in total would be a good idea and follow the assembly instruction for a complete new Core One. Or is there a better way to do it? CU Jens

Hello, I own a MK3S (Bear mod) and bought the upgrade kits to MK4 and the upgrade kit from MK4(S) to Core One. What is the best way to upgrade? I also own a working XL. I think disassembling the MK3S in total would be a good idea and follow the assembly instruction for a complete new Core One. Or is there a better way to do it? CU Jens

Hello, I own a MK3S (Bear mod) and bought the upgrade kits to MK4 and the upgrade kit from MK4(S) to Core One. What is the best way to upgrade? I also own a working XL. I think disassembling the MK3S in total would be a good idea and follow the assembly instruction for a complete new Core One. Or is there a better way to do it? CU Jens

Hi, I have not been following the printer development for a year. It seems that the INDX is some kind of tool changer. What is the difference between printer with IDEX and the XL+ which already has automatic tool changing?

Hello, I have been using the i3MK3S+ inside an IKEA enclosure (with a big hole connected to a fan to suck out the fume from a window) for about ten years. Usually I print PLA, PETG and TPU. I may try other materials but don't know yet. In case I buy the XL+, it is better to also buy that expensive XL Enclosure? What are the practical advantages of this enclosure? Is there a less expensive and perhaps better ones from IKEA or other company? If I don't turn on the fan, can the recommended enclosure block the noise from the printer? Sometimes I print overnight so the less noise the better. What stable IKEA table do you recommend for this big printer and perhaps enclosure?

I am having trouble printing TPU 95A. I can load the material just fine, it prints well for some time but then always tangles up. I hear clicking noises, stop the print, have to open the idler, fiddle out the stuck part, cut the filament, then I can unload. So, I loosened the idler tension by turning each screw counter-clockwise. I started with one quarter turn per screw, then another quarter, then another half turn. Each time, same problem. After arriving at a full turn, I stopped and wondered if I am doing it right. 6a34ddbd-idler-screws.jpeg

A lot of prints worked fine, but then more and more unwanted holes appeared at each layer shift. In this example (a simple "gridfinity" box with a label) you can see the holes clearly at the corner. Which settings do affect this kind of behaviour? I was using: - Nozzle Prusa HF 0.4 - Generic PLA, 0.20mm structural, first layer 105°C, other layers 190°C - Filament PolyTerra PLA print with holes

The load cell on my Core OneL has packed up. Not getting anything on the test and this is after it ploughed a furrow into the bed. been investigating as you can see. All connections are fine. Following the FAQs on this I was expecting to see a white patch over the load cell. Instead I have an uncovered cell that is either covered in grease or god forbid burnt ( I haven’t cleaned it off yet to check). is the state of the loadcell in my photo Normal?

Hello everyone, my name is Michael Bender from Germany. I am a trained toolmaker and computer scientist, and for the past months I have been developing a project called Constructor AI . The idea is simple: people should be able to create functional 3D-printable parts without having to learn a traditional CAD system first. Instead of drawing the part, you describe what you need in normal language. Constructor asks for missing dimensions and parameters, creates the geometry and lets you inspect the result in a 3D viewer. Existing STL files can also be imported and modified. Constructor is aimed primarily at functional parts : brackets, adapters, replacement parts, holes, countersinks, threads, fits, connections and similar mechanical components. I am not looking for praise or artificial demo examples. I am looking for real problems from real 3D-printer users . If you have a part that you would normally design in CAD, or an existing STL that needs a modification, I would be interested in testing Constructor against that task. Difficult examples are welcome. If something does not work, I want to know that too. Constructor currently supports German and English. I will be happy to show actual results here and discuss what works and what still needs improvement. Best regards from Germany, Michael Bender Constructor AI

I’ve run into an issue with audible noise. When the switching power supply operates at a load of less than 10%, the transformer emits a distinct whining sound with a frequency fluctuating between 2 kHz and 4 kHz; the noise disappears as the load increases. I tried replacing it with a varnish-impregnated transformer, which reduced the noise but didn't eliminate it completely. Oscilloscope readings show the supply entering skip-cycle mode at light loads, with the frequency falling right within the audible range. I’d like to ask for advice on how to shift the skip-cycle frequency out of the audible range—should I add a dummy load or modify the control mode? Thanks in advance for any help or guidance.

Hello, I received my Prusa Core One (Gen 2) printer as a kit last Friday. I spent two days putting it together, paying attention to every step. The assembly went well, and I performed the calibration tests at the end. Sunday, my test prints went well, the Prusa key ring, the scraper, and the Benchy perfect. On Monday I wanted to launch a bigger piece, which is an IKEA Skadis panel screwdriver holder. When I got to about 1 cm thick, I had a layer shift of about 0.5 mm. The piece is flat at this point and there was only one piece on the board so I don't think the head could have hit anything. I told myself that I had adjusted the belts tension incorrectly and wanted to do it again. I didn't get there. I had about a 10 Hertz gap between the two belts, and when I played on one side or the other or at the same time whatever, I couldn't really reduce this gap so I never got in the 89 Hz / 98 hertz window. By getting help from 'Gemini', I ended up getting to just 90 Hz / 98 Hz which I validated. But after this adjustment, the Y axis test no longer passes (skew). And indeed I had a small gap on the left side when I pulled the assembly at the front. At the end of all these manipulations, I hear a slight cloc, cloc, cloc from the engine area at the bottom left (X axis) if I move a little quickly during assembly. I'm a little desperate about how difficult it is to adjust the machine. And I even wonder if there isn't a mechanical problem now. I'm looking for help to analyze the situation

It would seem that a small retraction just prior to nozzle cleaning and bed leveling would help eliminate oozing. If I do this manually the nozzle cleaning never fails and I never get the repeated touches when bed leveling