Generac Generator Troubleshooting, Help, and Repair Forum forum

Are these all on new installs? Not something that previously worked and is now having issues? Are these units with Powerzone or Evolution controllers, and how is the carrier tying in their comms?

Is there a remote e-stop somewhere? Almost sounds like an e-stop was pushed, or maybe it's getting activated by the shock of the transfer if it's mounted on the ATS?

You probably bent a pin when unplugging and plugging that expensive module. Unplug it and check that all pins are there and where they should be. Look with good light and maybe a magnifier, they are small. Make sure there are no missing male pins, that one is not broken off and in the female harness connector. Then very carefully plug it back in making sure that no pins miss their cavity.

Hey I’m in telecom with a ton of SD30’s and at least a dozen of them are doing this same thing. Right after transfer it will throw these same faults all at once; volt zc lost, no ecu comms, gen overspeed, e-stop, engine stall. But if we clear the faults the gen will run fine in manual. Ive tried replacing components and checking all wiring and connections, checked settings too but cant figure whats causing this issue. Generac doesn’t really help industrial techs anymore so anyone thats seen this before or have any ideas to try would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Xt8000efi 2018, no spark. Tried to find oil sensor maybe thinking that was the problem. Need some troubleshooting ideas, some identifier pics of some of these components and maybe a basic schematic. Thank you any help

you can get a diagnostic manual from this gentek site. contact them or check their store. that manual has schematics heres a link https://shop.gentekpower.com/products/g ... 4be7&_ss=r

A really great way to set valves, is to loosen jamb nut and turn allen screw until the rocker arm just makes contact. Then hold the allen wrenchninplace and tighten jamb nut to torque setting. This almost always results in 0.003”.

And I think I just screwed up. I was originally going to post this in the 'Other Brands' section. Then I saw the 'Portable Generators' section and thought it more appropriate. As in I thought 'Other Brands' was for other brands of stationary back up generators. I believe I have it backwards. Mod, please move this post to 'Other Brands' if need be. Sorry for the hassle.

Hello! I am trying to replace a damaged male and female electrical terminal set in a 9-pin wiring harness plug on a Coleman Powermate Vertex 7500W portable generator that I have. It is model PM0557523, serial 81920086. The photos below are of the male terminal and the plug it is in. Correction, the last 3 photos are of a good male terminal that I extracted from the same plug. The middle pin has been poorly replaced with a bullet connector, and then super glued into the hole in the plug. Pin is for ground wire that goes to the generator frame. Plug connects to the control panel. The male pin measures approximately 0.14” OD. And therein lies the rub. This is a large pin. That I cannot find any information on. First, I thought it was a Molex pin. Nope, Molex only goes up to 0.093” OD. Maybe AMP. Nope, same. I have tried considerable ‘google-fu’ on: “0.14” electrical pin” “Powermate generator wiring pin” “Powermate generator harness” Variations on the above I found nothing. I have the owner’s manual for the generator, though it does not have a wiring diagram. Meaning no reference info. From the IPL, the plug is item 13C, part number 0050400, ‘Connector, hsg set, panel’. That part is unsurprisingly NLA, but I was hoping to use it to cross reference pin information. Nope. So, for anyone still reading, can you help me identify these pins so I can replace them? Thank you for your time! Surprisingly, the hole in the plug is not damaged. I was able to lock the yellow wire pin securely

I did not have my feeler gauges with me at the time but I could tell the valves had no clearance. The razor blade was to confirm where the intake pop was coming from which it did. No more popping. The plugs I took out looked new but had huge gaps, about .045. I did not know what the gap was supposed to be so I set them to 30 for now. I'm going back this week to set everything correctly and test again.

I did not have my feeler gauges with me at the time but I could tell the valves had no clearance. The razor blade was to confirm where the intake pop was coming from which it did. No more popping. The plugs I took out looked new but had huge gaps, about .045. I did not know what the gap was supposed to be so I set them to 30 for now. I'm going back this week to set everything correctly and test again.

I did not have my feeler gauges with me at the time but I could tell the valves had no clearance. The razor blade was to confirm where the intake pop was coming from which it did. No more popping. The plugs I took out looked new but had huge gaps, about .045. I did not know what the gap was supposed to be so I set them to 30 for now. I'm going back this week to set everything correctly and test again.