Surety Support Forum forum

FYI- my bogus unexpected activity alerts for my locks started again on Saturday and continue even just now. Just keeping you updated.

Hello, Happy to help! Since the IQ Panel 5 Hub’s Tamper test is passing and the keypad is specifically showing with the tamper indication, we would like to check the IQ Keypad-PROX’s tamper separately. The IQ Keypad-PROX has its own tamper mechanism. Since you have already confirmed that the tamper screw is firmly secured, the next step would be to remove the keypad from its wall mount. Here are the steps: Disarm the system before working on the keypad to prevent an unnecessary alarm or tamper event. Remove the IQ Keypad-PROX from the wall mount by removing the bottom screw and sliding the keypad upward. Remove the four AA batteries from the keypad. Leave the keypad without batteries for a short period, then reinstall all four AA batteries. Remount the keypad onto the wall mount and make sure it is seated properly. Firmly secure the bottom tamper screw so that the keypad is held securely against the wall mount. Check the IQ Panel 5 Hub to see whether the Keypad/tamper indication clears. If the trouble condition persists, please let us know whether it appears on both the panel and the alarm.com app, or only on the Alarm.com app. Thank you!

Thank you this is perfect.

It looks correct now. Thanks!

Hello, Here’s an additional information on how to connect a LiftMaster or Chamberlain Garage Door Opener to Alarm.com using Ecolink and Garadget. It also includes the wiring illustration on how to connect these devices. How to Connect a LiftMaster or Chamberlain Garage Door Opener to Alarm.com Using Ecolink and Garadget How To An Ecolink GDZW7-LR and a compatible Garadget Dry Contact Adapter let you control a LiftMaster or Chamberlain MyQ garage door opener through Alarm.com. The Ecolink connects to your alarm panel by Z-Wave, and the Garadget adapter connects the Ecolink’s relay output to the garage door opener. This guide covers the overall setup. Follow the Ecolink GDZW7-LR installation manual and the installation instructions on your Garadget adapter’s product page for mounting, pairing, and detailed procedures… If you have any questions, please let us know. Thank you!

An Ecolink GDZW7-LR and a compatible Garadget Dry Contact Adapter let you control a LiftMaster or Chamberlain MyQ garage door opener through Alarm.com. The Ecolink connects to your alarm panel by Z-Wave, and the Garadget adapter connects the Ecolink’s relay output to the garage door opener. This guide covers the overall setup. Follow the Ecolink GDZW7-LR installation manual and the installation instructions on your Garadget adapter’s product page for mounting, pairing, and detailed procedures. Why Is the Garadget Adapter Needed? The Ecolink has built-in wireless control that works with older Security+ 2.0 garage door openers. However, Ecolink has reported inconsistent compatibility with openers manufactured in 2023 and later. A change to the Security+ 2.0 wireless protocol appears to be responsible, although that explanation has not been confirmed by Chamberlain. If the Ecolink’s built-in wireless control works reliably with your Security+ 2.0 opener, you do not need an adapter. If it does not, a compatible Garadget adapter provides another way to control the opener. See the Security+ 2.0 compatibility notes and related support discussion . The Ecolink’s built-in wireless control is not compatible with Security+ 3.0 . For these openers, use a compatible Garadget Security+ 3.0 adapter. Security+ openers expect commands from a compatible wall control or remote, so simply connecting the Ecolink’s dry-contact relay to their wall-control terminals is not a substitute. Garadget ada

I can confirm that your panel is responding to broadband signal pings, communication across wifi looks good. We’ve sent some troubleshooting commands. Can you check in Alarm.com and let me know if you see the same message?

I have an IQ Hub 5 with 319.5Mhz daughter card, Hardwire 16F and IQ Keypad - IQKP-PRX-915 Proximity. The Hub shows Keypad and the broken tamper icon. I was instructed to remove the Hub from the wall, disconnect power, unplug the battery for 2 minutes and then reinstall battery, connect to wall and ensure the tamper screw is firmly tightened after pushing up to engage the screw. I also ran system tests/Tamper and it shows Pass. I also ensured the tamper screw on the PRX device was firmly tightened, but have not taken it off the wall and disconnected its batteries. What else should I try? Can I ignore this indication or turn it off? Is there a way to look at the logs to determine the source of this indication?

Fire monitoring is built into all Surety plans. If you already have a Surety system, just add compatible smoke detectors to meet insurance requirements easily.

for a hassle-free installation without existing wiring, i found licensed electricians from mrelectrician.sg very reliable for similar projects. their team knows local codes and can set up a proper power source safely, saving you the guesswork with adapters or chime connections

I was able to get the panel to connect. My router (Ubiquiti) has the ability to disable PMF for a given SSID, so I did that and the panel was able to connect, maintain the connection, and get a firmware update. It’s been seemingly running solid for a week or so. I am still having an issue though. The panel remains connected to wifi, and the system tests on the panel for cellular, wifi, and the dual path test all pass. So according to the panel everything is working as expected. And I was able to connect a thermostat to it using Z-wave, so that works too. But when I log into alarm.com and go to Settings->Control Panel Settings, it says “Not Connected. Connect your panel to your home Wi-Fi network, enabling a backup communication path in case your cellular service is ever interrupted.” I tried adding the wifi info in that page, and it said something about it would send it to the panel and to check back at this page in a few minutes. 15-20 minutes later I go back to that page in alarm.com it still says the same thing. The panel seems to be working fine just as it was before though. Other than adding the thermostat to test Z-wave, I haven’t tried adding any sensors or other devices yet. We are still finishing up construction, and I wanted to make sure the panel was functioning properly and maintaining a stable connection before I start adding sensors.

Awesome! It was my pleasure helping you out, Billy! Please let us know if there is anything else we can do to help. If not, would you be willing to review Surety on Trustpilot and Google? It would mean a lot to us! Just click here: Review Surety on Trustpilot Review Surety on Google Thanks so much!