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Reply To: Chunky

So I ended up buying Cocoa Homefresh Prohutch pellets 16% protein. It is the same brand That makes the show hutch food accept this one has a little less protein and it’s a pellet base instead of the crude balls. he ate it. So I decided to is a few of the Timothy hay pellets and he ate them. Every day I’ve been adding a tiny bit more into his food and he is actually eating them. So next week I’m going to give more of the Timothy hay pellets and much less of the other ones.

Reply To: Is Blue seal a good brand of rabbit food?

I’d probably look at the ingredient list and nutritional values before deciding. The bag size would also be a concern for a smaller number of rabbits, since it could take quite a while to use up. Freshness and whether the food is actually formulated for pet rabbits seem just as important as the brand name.

Reply To: Chunky

I can try to see if our humane society will take it. I was giving 2 handfuls twice a day. when I went to the store to get his old food a lady who works there has bunnies and she had me buy homefresh 16 pellets and to give in a 1/4 cup in the morning’s only. He seemed to like them. I’ll wait to see in October what his vet thinks and I will switch pellets after discussing with the vet.

Reply To: Chunky

Our humane society will accept opened bags of food. Do you have a shelter that has rabbits near you? I don’t think it hurts to try a different food. Sometimes you just have to find the right one. When we brought my bunny home, the humane society didn’t give us anything or tell us what they had been feeding him, so I just went to the store and bought some really nice pellets. And guess what! He absolutely refused to eat them. He loved eating everything else, but would not touch those pellets. I had never had a rabbit turn their nose up to pellets. But I decided to some different ones anyway. I guess it didn’t matter since he was forced into a hard switch anyway. Luckily, he liked the second ones I tried and he didn’t seem negatively affected (he was still pretty young). If you want to continue with the old food, you will need to feed him much less than what it says on the bag. Depending on his size, this may be something like a “sprinkle” or a tablespoon. You may need to experiment to get the right amount. And you are correct, rich food can make a bunny sluggish… no different than people. EDIT: I looked up this food, the pellets are extruded meaning they are going to weigh less than a normal pellet. The feeding instructions go by weight instead of volume, so you will definitely need to experiment with this more. How much were you feeding him before?

Reply To: Chunky

Well Cocoa absolutely hates the new food. I called vet made a check up appointment for October 17th. They told me sounds like he hates the new food and to go back to the old and decrease the amount . Guess I’m going buy his old food tomorrow. They did say I could try a different brand but bunnies are very picky eaters. I just wasted $20 on food not sure what to do with it. Any suggestions?

Reply To: Chunky

Cocoa still won’t eat his new pellets. he is still eating lots of hay, greens etc. I no longer give him his old food because it’s been a week and a half and all he would do is pick out and eat the old food. I’ve tried sprinkling his dandelion treats on the new food and he ate that but not the new food. He does go to his food dish smells the new food then walks away. yesterday while I had his new pellets in a measuring cup I sat it down so he could smell and he threw it. I’ve noticed a big improvement on him in regards to being more active which he wasn’t before while eating his old pellets and I was told that was the sugars in the old food making him less active. I’ve also been told he doesn’t really need pellets in his diet because they only need 5% of pellets is that true? should I buy another pellet food that still contains Timothy hay? If so would I have to buy his old food as well and start over? Or do I just keep being persistent with this new food I have been trying to get him to eat

Reply To: unbonded rabbits that dont fight. (help)

Bonds don’t always look the same. No fighting is definitely a good sign. And if they need to “hump things out”, then sometimes that’s just what needs to happen in its own time. What other techniques have you tried?

unbonded rabbits that dont fight. (help)

They don’t like each other and they’re both fighting (not literally fighting) for dominance. (one will mount the other on occasion and the other will bow his head for pets only to be ignored) and they’re still marking all over the place, but they’ve never actually fought. the living room is big enough for the one being mounted to run when he doesn’t want to be mounted. idk what to do. I mean, I guess it’s better than having two rabbits that hate each other and are always fighting, but they don’t really like each other either. Idk how to “bond” them 😭 they’ve lived in the living room together for around a week and they’ve been able to be left unsupervised. is this normal? Are they just never gonna bond/establish hierarchy? (two males) sometimes I’ll find them laying down together though, but I’ve noticed that the one who mounts will only lay down next to the other when he wants to mount him because he can’t while he’s lying down. (He’ll run away to get away from the other and the other will lie down next to him) Yes, they are both neutered

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