Fórum Heating Help: The Wall

Hi everyone, how do you make sure your health and safety policy is actually used? Clear responsibilities and simple instructions seem like a good starting point. If staff regularly move stock or equipment, the policy should explain how those tasks are managed safely. Relevant training, such as manual handling training , can support those arrangements. For transparency, I work with Hurak. What has helped your team put the policy into practice?

Hoping someone may be able to help. Biasi boiler was fired using the now antiquated G3B. Few years ago I was not able to find a blower motor for it so I installed a new EZ Gas Pro supplied by Biasi. Has been reliable however there is a real distinct rumble while it runs. Finally found a blower motor and returned the G3B to service with an updated ignition control module with post purge. The million dollar question.... Does anyone happen to have any of these old G3Bs collecting dust that they would like to sell? Appreciate any help! Chris

I am curious why ever geo manufacture on their equipment requires two electrical circuits? One specifically for the compressor, and one that does the controls, fan motor, and heat kit if there is one. It seems that it would make more sense to make the unit a single point connection. I used to think this was done by just one manufacturer, but every geothermal unit I see is made this way

does anyone have a suggestion on an in expensive controller, brand doesn’t matter that can be powered with 24vac, accepts a 10 k sensor (supply air) that has two normally open contacts? Make on temperature rise. One contact is necessary, but two stages (two contacts) would be preferred. I need to temporarily get a 100% OA unit working until the OEM controller can be installed. It is an older unit and the controller while still available has a long lead time. Thanks to all

@Long Beach Ed I'm just really curious about the outcome if any, of the mattress radiator you've been working on. Any results?

I have a 5-ton Trane system serving about 3,054 sq ft. Outdoor unit: 4TTR5060N1000AA Indoor furnace/blower: S8V2D120M5PC , variable-speed ECM Original blower motor failed after about 2 years and was replaced under warranty. Static was measured twice at about: Return: -0.35 in. w.c. Supply: +0.45 in. w.c. TESP: ~0.80 in. w.c. The system currently cools well at 76–77°F, humidity is generally 48–54%, and room-to-room temperature difference is about 3°F after prior balancing. One tech calculated duct capacity at roughly 2,120 CFM return and 2,165 CFM supply , but that was based on duct sizes, not instrument-measured airflow. Trane’s blower tables for this furnace show performance data through 0.9 in. w.c. , which is why I’m trying to understand how to interpret the 0.8 reading in real-world use. My main questions: Is 0.8 concerning enough to investigate further on a variable-speed ECM system that otherwise performs well? Could 0.8 reasonably contribute to an ECM blower failing after only about 2 years? Would you first measure actual CFM, blower setup, filter pressure drop, and coil pressure drop before changing any ductwork? How do you interpret a manufacturer blower table that publishes airflow through 0.9 when 0.5 is often quoted as the design/rated static? I’m trying to determine whether this is a genuine restriction issue that should be corrected or simply a higher-than-ideal but common operating condition.

Almost done with installing a new boiler. I was thinking it might be a good idea to pressure test the whole system with air before I fill it with water. In the process of trying to figure out how to do that. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

A Pocketful of Steam Problems (with Solutions). 'Lost Art' seems to help me more, and limited space, so letting this go. $5.00 shipping.

Can anyone recommend a motorized exterior louvered vent for combustion air ? Looking for something about 24" x 24", and it needs to have an end switch of some sort to interlock with the combustion equipment. Any preferred types, models, mfg's ?

Westchester County NY, 1890 house with a 2004 extension. Original hydronic install was done well; I've had trouble finding anyone competent since. Current setup: Buderus G215/4 oil boiler (2004), stacked on a Logalux LT200/2 horizontal indirect (53 gal) Radiant: basement slab, entire first floor (aluminum plates screwed to subfloor, 3/8" PEX, ~2000 ft, oak and tile above), master bath(Heatlink manifold for 1st floor (MBR bathroom manifold and slab manifold replaced weith Upinor 6 years ago after HeatLink manifold for those loops failed. Baseboard: Runtal panels, 2nd floor, currently 180°F design; Wirsbo PEX supply and return from baseboard HeatLink 31320 injection mixing control with outdoor reset on the radiant loop; StatLink thermostats/zone modules Two high-temp zones: 2nd floor baseboard, DHW. Third zone roughed in for 3rd floor, not commissioned Three Taco 007s, all original The failure: Tank perforated. Water along the whole jacket seam, saturated insulation, drips across the length. First symptom was a weeping drain nipple with green crusting — dezincified brass. Anode was serviced once at year 16 and came out a stub. Nobody would service it again: it's behind a 12-16 bolt gasketed flange and every contractor refused or wanted a waiver on broken bolts. Three things I've discovered along the way: No mixing valve, tank aquastat set to 150°F. Undiluted 150 to every fixture for 22 years. I assume that's what killed the brass. Expansion tank teed ~15 ft (PEX, including a 7

I am having an issue with a lennox evaporator coil m#cx34-36c-6f-2, it is attached to a lennox furnace model# EL296uh090xv36c-05. Both were installed in 2014. The issue is that every couple of weeks the coil freezes up, unit stops cooling. Once defrosted the suction pressure never goes above 100 psi, and with 410a that is low enough for it to freeze. The txv was replaced, and the results were the same. The issue appears to be air flow, as the super heat and subcooling at the outdoor unit are good. The air filter is clean and there are no obstructions in the duct work. I increased the airflow setting in the lennox wall thermostat/ controller to 1400 cfm from 1050, in an attempt to move more air. The LCD readout on the furnace says that it is moving 1400 cfm of air, but listening to the noise level of the furnace it sounds like the blower is moving at half speed. I put an ecm motor tester on the motor and with the tester the ESP reading was the same. .44 I have yet to find any documentation from Lennox where with an actual live esp reading can be compared to a chart, so the readout can be confirmed that is the actual amount of air the furnace is moving. Could it be possible that the fan motor is not turning fast enough even though the board appears to be sending the proper signal for the motor to ramp up to it's highest speed? Like I previously mentioned the external static is the same where the motor is hooked to the furnace's circuit board, or an ECM tester. Thanks to all

A question for the pros: which refrigerant leak detector that’s rated for A2L do you think is best? In other words, which would you buy? I have the H10, but IDK if it’s rated for A2L.