Hi everyone, I would like to introduce PrintHaus – a browser app I am developing that lets you click together the building you want for 3D printing. For model railways, dioramas, the tabletop gaming table, or as a single model to put on display. The principle: you choose and click – PrintHaus takes care of the construction. Pick a floor plan, set the number of floors, click a roof shape, and decide where windows and doors go. The app calculates the building from that and shows you every change directly in the preview. You do not need any CAD or modelling skills. Behind the scenes, PrintHaus applies more than 2,000 logical construction rules. A quick look at the app (promo video): https://youtu.be/P_BGNKd-QY8 This is how you get to your building: - Choose floor plan and floors: use a template or set the corner points of a free floor plan by clicking. Then pick the number of floors – up to 10 floors are possible. - Choose a roof: click a roof shape, set pitch and overhangs, and add dormers if you like. PrintHaus calculates the matching roof geometry. - Choose windows, doors, interior walls, stairs and railings and say where they go. The app generates the parts. - Click a texture: more than 50 textures are available for facades and roofs. The right scale for your hobby: PrintHaus offers scales from 1:10 to 1:300. Examples: - Model railways: 1:87 for H0, 1:120 for TT, 1:160 for N and 1:220 for Z. For larger layouts there are also 1:45 for O gauge (NEM), 1:32 for gauge 1 and 1:22.
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When printing with ABS using the default ABS profile, the print stops after the heat break temperature gets to about 60C. I should say extrusion stops because the printer is oblivious and keeps on doing it thing. I don't work with ABS very often, so I am unfamiliar with typical heat break temperatures reached for this profile. I'm guessing it is heat creep because it is so very consistent and after cooling the extruder works again. Looking for advice. with ABS. Is 60C at the break high enough to gum up the works with ABS, Or should I look somewhere else for the gremlin?
Since the recent firmware updates I cannot find the setting to turn off the chamber lights while printing. Anyone know how to do it now? When I print over night I want my printer to effectively be in "black out" mode
Hi everybody! i went to print today and was given a couple of errors. The most important one, that's preventing me from printing is the "bed leveling failed" error message. I've gotten this message in the past, every now and then, but when i rerun the calibration, the error self corrects. Today, i didnt have the same luck. I tried reruning it but kept getting the same error message. I scanned the qr code and did what they recommended. I cleaned the nozzel, cleaned the bed and ran the x, y and z axis calibrations and yet im still facing the same issue. I'm also getting an error message saying that my chamber fan isn't not working correctly, but when i turn the chamber fan on manually, it runs fine. Can someone please help. I've been having some frustrating troubleshooting issues as of late, I can use someones help.
hi I ended up with 2 minis there been used but are still working great but after re building them (with a box of spares parts i was given) I can't fine the compression nuts that used for the bowen tubes. Anyone have any idea what i can do to get them, or what options i have. I did see there sold out on prusa site.
I haven't quite caught it in action yet but I am occasionally having issues with toolhead #4 giving me issues when starting a print. I believe it's picking it up, flipping the vent to the correct position, and then having issues when re-docking. If I re-calibrate it gives me no issues, and I can manually dock/undock the tool without any issues, having it go from any other head to/from tool 4 manually. During the last print I used tool 4 in order to print, it did multiple head changes without any issues. I've tried swapping the toolhead between locations, and the problem doesn't follow the head/nozzle, it's always location #4. I've re-calibrated it, re-adjusted it, nothing seems to make it better or worse. I suspect it might be interfering with the vent lever but, you know how intermittent problems are, they know when you're watching and don't occur if I am.
Hallo, bis jetzt lief alles super mit dem Mini, er hat in den letzten Tagen auch mehrere kleine Dosen korrekt gedruckt, jedoch ab Dose 5 geht nix mehr. Er fängt richtig an, jedoch in 1 bis 2 cm Höhe beginnt er plötzlich Rillen zu drucken bzw. kann man an einigen Stellen durch schauen. Nach einer Neukalibrierung der z Achse bzw. Filamentwechsel war der Probedruck der Pfeife vom Stick perfekt, jedoch die neue kleine Dose endete in einem Klumpen mit anschließenden Luftschlangen. Kann mir jemand sagen, warum das so sein könnte bzw. mas ich tun kann. LG Anne
I’m curious if anyone tried measuring the INDX hotend temperature using an external IR probe or a small thermistor attached to the tip to determine how close the set temperature is to the real temperature.
Hello, After modifying my INDX GEN2 Core One, I’m having issues with the Z-axis. When the build plate moves all the way down, it doesn't rise smoothly at the start of a print; instead, it moves in a jerky, stepped motion. Also, while still at the bottom, it tries to level itself against the bed. Calibrations are fine; if I manually raise the plate, everything works—until the plate travels all the way down again. Do you have any idea how to fix this? Thanks for the advice.
Summary Changes and improvements Increased bed parking speed (5 mm/s → 15 mm/s) Fixes Fixed display randomly freezing Fixed print resume stuck at "Heating" Fixed extruder motor not spinning after manual tool change Improved Tool Offset Sensor stability Fixed parking position in tool offset calibration Release notes https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/releases/tag/v6.10.2
I have many models collected on printables and sorted in collections. But when I want to print them in the App, I have to open the model, copy the name and add it in easyprint. can you add there the options for own collections and favorites?
Hi everyone, I’ve been thinking about the Prusameter program and one change that could make it even more useful would be giving customers more flexibility in how they redeem their rewards. Instead of limiting redemptions to direct shipments from Prusa, it could be interesting to allow customers to claim eligible Prusament through participating official resellers as well. For customers who live far from Prusa’s main shipping regions, delivery costs can sometimes make a reward feel less worthwhile. Having the option to collect a reward through a local reseller could make the program much more attractive while also giving those resellers another reason to keep Prusament in stock. It could also benefit the reseller network by increasing filament turnover and encouraging stores to maintain a wider selection of colours and materials. At the same time, Prusa could potentially reduce some of the packaging and individual shipping involved with sending every reward directly to customers. Obviously, there would be some logistics to work out, but I think a reseller-based redemption option could be a useful addition to the existing Prusameter system. Just an idea that I’d be interested to hear others’ thoughts on!
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