Fórum W Body

This is a great educational video about these motors. You can skip forward to the appropriate section for any questions.

Agreeing with 55 here. Those are reusable...I can send you a video of the process.

Im looking to buy a 3rd gen regal.. this is very specific but this would be my ideal selection, willing to comprimise on a couple things. Looking for a 1990-1994 Buick Regal Limited in black with red interior, cloth or leather, with the 3800 engine, sunroof, and front bench seats.

That item is no longer produced, finding a *new* replacement will be on the awkward side. They can be serviced, it's just a mechanical oil filled/spring loaded tensioner.

do you know were i can found the timing belt tensioner for this car the motor is 3.4 lq1 am changing the timing belt but mine is crying oil i need a new on the part number is GM 24503860

It's dusty........but not rusty. Nice climate in Peru.

That's awesome, I often wish my Cutlass could end up somewhere exotic and I could live vicariously through it.

I didn't find any other part # other than 10087630 for a 93 Regal with the old "3.1 MULTI PORT FI". Is it the original engine? ManicMechanic mentioned above Beretta got a 3-port. I found the Beretta p/n is 10146861. If the rubber block is badly deteriorated, might just have to use a lot of RTV to fill it. A quick Google search and I wasn't able to find generic rubber hose barbs either. A couple ideas off the top of my head (no idea if they'd actually work): 1. Find some hose with the OD approximately the size of the holes in the TB, and ID approximately the size of the plastic tubing. Shove the plastic tube into a short piece of hose and shove that hose into TB. 2. You could try one of those press-fit O-ring ends into the TB with a barb on the other side. I'd guess they come in different sizes, though that'll probably be hours of research to find them in the right sizes. 3. Or a non-reversible solution could be to tap out the holes in the TB piece and use metal threaded ends barbs. Although in both cases you'd need a short length of rubber hose to connect it to to the existing plastic vacuum lines. I would probably try my idea #1 first.

would any one know how to get a 3 port vacuum harness? ive got a 93 Buick regal with a 3.1 multiport Fi and i need a 3 port. i cant find any parts diagrams anywhere with a 3 port, and no junkyard within 30 miles of me even has an old 3100 engine that i can look at. ive found plenty of 3700 and 3800 of different makes and models, but none even have a 4 port harness. mine was badly rotted from never being touched for 30 years and ive lost powered brakes, my ac selector no longer works and my power steering locks up whenever i give it around half or more than a half press of my brake peddle, causing me to almost crash every time i have to make a turn without stopping fully. im going mad trying to search for it, every idiot behind a parts counter at every auto parts shop have no clue what im talking about and i can not for the life of me find a part number for a 3 port, i cant find any diagrams with a 3 port, and no one sells anything but a "do it yourself kit" with hose barbs and universal hose i have to cut to length

Yep, that tracks. The 7727/7730 confusion trips up a lot of people because the guts and calibration family overlap, but the packaging and mounting are what matter in the W-body. For CuttyBawl’s case I’d still verify the MEM-CAL broadcast code before trusting any ADX/XDF combo, especially with a reman ECM sticker involved. For scanning only, the right data stream/mask matters more than the XDF, so if it’s truly a 1990 LH0 he should be looking at $88 stuff first, not just grabbing A109 because it “sort of connects.” For tuning, yeah, starting from $A1 makes sense if you know what you’re changing, but I wouldn’t send a first-timer down that rabbit hole until the idle fault is sorted mechanically. OBD1 will happily let you chase ghosts all weekend, ask me how I know.

Thanks Black92GS, I’ll get a wiring diagram and start tracing anything I can. Today I had an hour to check and even cleaned all fuse connections in both boxes. Nothing looked out of the ordinary. After I hooked the battery up again I tried a start and had crank for 1 second and then completely dead again. Locks windows lights etc all work normally. So I put my head under the hood and hit the remote start to listen. Everything seems to power up and then after a couple seconds you hear the drop in voltage when the starter would engage but nothing. Then as it cycles and tries again I hear the little clicks and chirps coming from the transmission. It tries three times and nothing. shift selector still says wrong gear (mostly 3) and there’s some more random codes my reader can’t detail. Says something like only available with add on from GM. tried one more time with the remote start while wiggling any harnesses I could get at from above and no changes or surprises. I'm close to letting a professional look at it but I’m afraid they are going to take weeks to find the gremlins. Pretty discouraging feeling today so I’m going to the mountains for 4 days in the suburban to listen to a bunch of bluegrass and drink myself happy. I’ll keep this updated as it progresses next week. IMG_0430.mov

After seeing the code list, my thoughts are now that you're either going to be dealing with a bad sensor somewhere on the 5 volt reference B side possibly shorting out internally and taking down everything else, a chafed wire or corroded connector somewhere.....or even a failed PCM. I would ignore the harsh shifting and random no-start at this time, since those are likely just symptoms of the overall issue. 5 volt sensors generally work based on a voltage output to represent a particular value. Take your range sensor. It would receive a 5 volt signal, and would output a different voltage to represent PRND321. If the 5 volt signal going into the sensor is being pulled down slightly and randomly by something else, the output voltage will change, and the PCM can interpret those changes as different reported shifter positions. If the vehicle is off and its reporting something other than park or neutral....it won't start. It may also begin shifting funny as it no longer knows which position the shifter is in. If it were me...I'd be starting my troubleshooting on that 5 volt reference branch first.